How to properly export a photo to jpeg in good quality after processing in lightroom? Saving a photo in Adobe Lightroom after processing How to save an image in Lightroom

- this is still half the battle, the picture still needs to be finalized. For this purpose, a program that has gained popularity among users due to its simplicity and intuitive interface is Adobe Photoshop Lightroom.
Working in this graphic editor is somewhat different from image processing, for example, in Photoshop. All changes made to the photo are saved in the database (catalog) automatically, without affecting the original file.
Let's say you removed your photos, removed defects ( , ), corrected the color and decided to save the result in standard format JPG. This is where a little problem arises.
We are all used to the fact that in any application (and graphic editor is no exception) there is an “Open” and “Save” command (File -> Save As), but here you will not find this, and this is somewhat unusual and can confuse the user.
The question arose on its own How to save in lightroom?»
Since there are no changes in the original file, it is more logical to talk about such a thing as "export in lightroom"

When working with Raw files, image processing data can be stored not only in the directory, but also in XMP files (they store the final result of processing, without a history of changes), if you use the universal DNG file format, then the result is not written to "XMP", but inside the file itself.

How to save in lightroom? (Export in Lightroom). Step 1

First you need to select photos.
You can do this, for example, in the module "Library" (Library) - switch to grid mode (Grid View), for this you can use "G" with the selected English keyboard layout.
Next, hold down the Shift or Ctrl key and select desired images and click the "Export..." button on the left pane

Export in lightroom

Or click right click mouse and select the "Export" option, or use the hotkeys "Ctrl + Shift + E", or the menu command File -> Export.

In the window that appears, there are a lot of settings, which we will now focus on.

Export in lightroom

Export in Lightroom must be started with the "Export Location" settings

Export in lightroom

Export Location - location of saved files

The following options are available for Export To:

Specific folder - a folder of the user's choice,
Chose folder later (userful presets) - choose a folder later,
User Folder - default user folder,
My Documents Folder - My Documents,
My Pictures Folder - My pictures,
Desktop - Desktop,
Same folder as original photo - save to the folder with the original.
The "Put in Subfolder" option allows you to create a subfolder with the desired name.
Add to This Catalog - adds exported files to the current directory, when the "Add to Stack" option is enabled, the images will be combined into stacks with the originals.

Export in lightroom

It is possible to leave the old file names or change them according to one of the built-in rules (or create your own rule).

This item is optional, so we will not dwell on it in detail.
Export in Lightroom allows you to select the file format (File Settings).

Export in lightroom

Depending on the selected file type, different settings are displayed.

For example, for the most popular "JPG" format, the following options are available

quality - quality,
Color Space - color space
Limit File Size to - limit the file size to the specified value

Export to Lightroom contains another important option - "Image Sizing" (image size).

Export in lightroom

Width & Height (Width / height) - setting restrictions on the size of the photo.
Dimensions (dimensions) - restriction on the long and short side
Long Edge - on the long side,
Short Edge - short,
Megapixels - limit on megapixels,
Don't Enlarge - a ban on image enlargement
Resolution - resolution.

In order for the end result of answering the question " how to save in lightroom”was more pleasant to read, you need to use the “Output Sharpening” option - adding sharpness.

Export in lightroom

Possible options

Screen - sharpness optimization for the monitor screen,
Matte Paper - for matte paper,
Glossy Paper - for glossy paper.

It is possible to adjust the strength of the increase (Amount) - high (high), medium (standard), low (low).
Export to Lightroom contains the option "Metadata" - metadata.

Export in lightroom

Minimize Embedded Metadata - removes almost all metadata (camera information, shooting conditions, and others), with the exception of IPTC Copyright.

Write Keywords as lightroom Hierarchy - if you use with a hierarchical structure, then they will also be written during export (if the Export Containing Keywords option is enabled).

Export in Lightroom contains a very useful feature - Watermarking (watermarks)

Export in lightroom

I talked about watermarks in detail in the article "".

Another export option in Lightroom - Post processing - what to do after the export from Lightroom.

Export in lightroom

Do nothing - do nothing
Show in explorer - show in explorer,
Open in Adobe Photoshop - open in Photoshop
Open in other Application - open in another application
Go to Export Action Folder Now - shows the "Export Action" folder (one of the methods for automating actions in lightum)

When editing a photo, you need to pay attention not only to photo defects (for example,) and speed up your work using .

Achieve personal and professional success with training “

If you follow the work of some photographers, you may have noticed that each of them has their own style. But this does not mean that they try to make every photo look like the previous one. An example of such photographers can be club photographers.

The work of a club photographer at first glance may seem interesting, fun (after all, he works in an entertainment place), but imagine what it's like to process hundreds, thousands of photos? And you need to get the job done quickly. Comes to our aid.

So, we processed one photo, how to process the rest? I offer you create your preset!

Choose a photo that you like and on the basis of which you want to make a preset. Attention, you must “be” in the “ Corrections”.

Have you chosen? Now let's start saving the preset. way create preset two, they are no different, but for you, dear readers, I will show you two at once. Moreover, the differences will be only in one step.

Step 1.1. In the menu we are looking for the section “ Corrections” and in the submenu “ New preset...”

Step 1.2. Or you can use the “+” button in the preset list.

Step 2 In the window that will appear in front of us, the program will prompt you to select the settings that you want to include in the preset. And also choose a name for the future preset.

Step 3 After saving the preset, it will appear in the “ User Presets”.

And we have learned save your preset in lightroom.

Now you can use your preset on other photos. But, you must understand that in one photo it can look perfect, and in another it’s just awful. The shooting conditions are different, and it is worth using it only for the same photo shoot, and then, most likely, you will have to adjust each photo. But, it's better than processing a photo from scratch for each frame.

Updated 07.11.2019 Views 34640 Comments 76

I got to the last article related to photography, hooray! On the topic of processing, there are many holivars on the net: both regarding what it should / should not be done, and regarding how specifically to do it. My view on this topic is based on what result I personally want to get and at what cost. To clarify: first of all, I shoot for the blog and for my family archive, that is, I do not earn a living from photographs directly. Plus, I can’t spend too much time on them, otherwise I won’t have time to work, after all, I have to process a lot of photos. My site publishes 2-3 articles a week, each with about 20-40 photos. On the other hand, I can’t release completely unprocessed ones either, they are faded (because RAW), there are often too bright or too dark areas, and so on, and I don’t like such photos myself. That is, it would be possible, probably, to spread any, but this is not my option.

All parts of my FAQ for beginner photographers

How do I edit photos in Lightroom?

Thus, I am a supporter of shallow processing due to the lack of motivation to spend a lot of time on it, and I don’t see much difference for myself yet. Of course, occasionally I can conjure a little longer, but this “masterpiece” still has nowhere to put it. Now I have all the processing going on in Lightroom, and I already forgot when I used other programs. So, if you are good with Photoshop and prefer to process photos quite heavily, then in the post you are unlikely to find something worthwhile for yourself :)

As I said, I do all the processing in Lightroom and it's pretty simple. In fact, I only crop and level the horizon, stretch the shadows and darken the highlights, add color and sharpen.

Import photos and presets

I insert the flash drive from the camera into the card reader and import the photo with transfer to an external HDD. About the storage of photos, I will write below. When importing, I apply pre-created presets: and . Now I use only the latter (I have a Sony A6500), it has more settings for my camera and for the way I shoot. There is also a couple for the phone and a second camera.

But the presets are very similar, they differ a little only in the settings for shadows, lights and exposure, and I constantly adjust them, because my opinion changes, then once again I try to adjust the settings for most photos in order to process them less. Some of the recurring settings are: Clarity +25, Vibrance +25, Sharpening +60, Noise Reduction Luminance +65, Enable Lens Correction. The latter is quite important, as it adjusts the photo (mostly geometric distortion is removed) to fit your lens. But this is if Lightroom knows your camera. For example, for the Canon G7xm2, I then have to manually select something similar to it.

Regarding presets, I want to say right away that there is no right or wrong here. Well, if we talk about amateurs, the pros are different, although they may have a special author's style. Therefore, you can create a preset for yourself with any settings you like, and it will be right. After all, the main thing is that it suits you, you process them, simply because "I see it that way." Here, of course, you can argue, I do not insist :) It's never too late to read about professional processing, about how gurus suggest using this or that setting, and change your presets.

I do not rename the files, I leave them as they are.

Photo thinning

The next step after import and before processing is thinning. Usually I delete: photos that are blurry, duplicates (when 20 photos of the same object were taken), all photos with marriage (too dark, too overexposed, etc.), just photos that I don’t like. Sometimes I can leave with a marriage, if there is nothing like that, and the photo is very necessary.

But in general, after a couple of years of photography, I began to spend much less time on thinning and thinning less carefully, at first I left almost 50% somewhere. Easier hard disks change to more capacious ones and buy new ones than sit for several days and thin out. Moreover, my archive is not growing so fast. Plus, besides, more than once there was such a moment that suddenly a remote photo was needed, even if it was defective.

Thinning also takes place in Lightroom, I mark the photo as Rejected with the X key, then I delete all the marked ones at once.

Cropping and flattening the horizon

At first I did framing very often, then apparently I took aim and I build a normal composition already at the stage of photographing. In the article, I said that I use the rule of thirds, and so when cropping, I use it in the same way. Not fanatical.

white balance

Since I always take pictures with automatic white balance, I correct it in the program by eye with the Temp and Tint levers. Mostly I use the first, the second less often. Sometimes you can use Auto to get Lightroom's opinion. By the way, it is difficult to correct colors on ordinary monitors, because they are not calibrated, and the matrices themselves have poor color reproduction. That is, you will do as you see fit, and other users will see everything in a completely different way.

Now I have Macbook Pro 15″ with Retina display. I consider it, of course, not a reference, but very good in terms of color reproduction. Also, 15 inches of double resolution is enough for me to process photos.

Stretching shadows and darkening highlights

Since many photos have some problems with dynamic range, processing can reduce them. To do this, I lighten the shadows with the Shadows lever (move it to the plus), then darken the too bright areas of the Highlights (move it to the minus). The resulting result I correct Exposure (plus or minus, depending on the situation) and often still adjust White and Blacks. Oh, and I almost forgot, I add Contrast, because when lightening the shadows it is lost, and occasionally I add more Clarity (up to 50), increasing the micro-contrast. Although usually the contrast and micro-contrast are immediately set by the preset when importing to the fixed values \u200b\u200bthat I need (+10 and +25, respectively).

I personally like photos with micro-contrast more than those with contrast or oversharpening. That's why I sometimes even take Shadows a big plus, and then increase Clarity even more. How watchable it turns out for you, you decide for yourself. Well, I often do contrast not at the expense of Contrast, but at the expense of White and Blacks, so it turns out to be more accurately adjusted, because they are regulated from “two sides”.

Adding color

Previously, I applied 2 presets: Blue Sky 0.5 (), or Skin toning lighter (). The first preset was peeped at by Sergey Doli (it was called Matts Blue Sky 1), but I redid it a little, reduced the parameter changes by half. I don't remember where I downloaded the second one. So, now I have Blue Sky 0.5 already "sewn" into the preset when importing, so I have reduced my processing steps a little more.

Blue Sky is needed to increase the blueness of the sky, but for this it should not be too overexposed (otherwise it will be useless), and to increase the saturation of yellow and orange colors. It is important to mention that sometimes you need to set the Luminance for the blue color back to zero, otherwise the blueness does not come out natural.

Skin toning changes the balance of light, making the skin color more like the real thing. But the truth and everything around also changes the balance, not just the skin. So let's say, for lovers of warm shades and lamps.

Sharpen and remove noise

Since all photos go either to a blog or Instagram, that is, the photos will be viewed only from the screen, and not at the maximum resolution, but about 1000 px in width, the sharpness can be painlessly turned up in the program. My sharpness is also set by a preset during import (+60). Depending on the photo, I may lower the Sharpening values to avoid over-sharpening or noise. Actually, noise neutralization also occurs during import, and then I rarely touch the Luminance (+65) lever. Basically, you have to reduce Sharpening and Luminance for jpegs received from a soap dish or a smartphone.

And again, I will mention the Clarity tool here. In fact, it also makes the photo sharper.

Using additional tools

Most often of all presented, I use a gradient filter to brighten / darken a part of a photo, or change the contrast or white balance of a certain part of a photo. Sometimes it's better to use a brush instead, which is more convenient when you need to change a difficult area, for example, a face, on which, on the contrary, you need to remove Clarity (otherwise it will be too structured). IN latest versions Lightroom, these tools have much more settings, you can change anything in the selected area.

Less often I use a stamp to remove some garbage from a photo.

Export

After I have processed the image, I put a flag (Set Flag -> Flagged) with the P key. This will allow, after I am done with all the images, to display only them using the filter (Filter by flag -> Flagged only), view once again only on the processed images and export them all in droves. For each article, I usually process about 20-40 photos.

I have already created a special preset for export. The folder for export, the size of the exported jpeg (2048 × 2048), its quality (75%), the sharpness during export (High), the preservation of meta-data, the watermark (configured and saved as well as a preset) are selected in it. I do 100% quality for Instagram, I don’t add a watermark.

Final result

In fact, in the example above, there was some attempt to expand the dynamic range (if you expand it too much, it will already be pseudo HDR). Naturally, it is not always necessary to carry out exactly such manipulations with photographs, but usually they are very similar: adjusting the blue / yellow balance, brightening the shadows, darkening the highlights, increasing the contrast. Simply, when there is not such a big difference between dark and light areas, then the levers will not need to be moved to their extreme positions, but only a little bit and this is done, of course, by eye.

Why Lightroom

It's simple, it just happened. I tried and I liked this program. It is great for correcting photos, not for deep editing them. Everything here is done for this, there are all the tools. Plus, I also have the entire photo library in it, and you can quickly find everything you need: there are a bunch of different filters, you can set labels for photos (I really don’t use this at all).

There are plenty of analogues, but I don’t want to try anything yet, everything suits.

About resizing in Wordrpess

I can't help mentioning something that might be important for bloggers of the WordPress platform. I upload photos to the blog that are 2048px wide, but in the post they are displayed at a size of 800px (full size on click, the photo is shown in a lightbox). If you upload full-size photos on your blog, and the engine resizes them to the size you need, then this is a so-so idea, if quality is important to you, of course. The fact is that the built-in resize will spoil the sharpness quite a lot, the photo turns out to be blurry. However, few visitors will notice this, unless of course you have a photographer's portfolio with an offer of your services. Well, there may not be enough space on the hosting, since a full-sized JPG can easily take up 10 megabytes.

Alternatively, use the Sharpen Resized Images plugin, it will add sharpness when resized, but it also does it quite roughly.

How do I store photos?

All photos, videos and other files are stored on a Seagate 4TB external portable hard drive, because they do not fit on a laptop drive. This disc I always have with me. The photo archive now takes up about 1.5 TB (for 2017), which is actually not very much if you are a photographer or blogger and shoot a lot. The file structure is shown in the screenshot below. As a rule, there is a separate folder for each trip, inside of which there are 2-3 more folders for each of the cameras. But if the trip is long and in different cities, then a separate folder is also created for each city.

The folders have the following structure: Year/Month_Day_Event Name/Survey Device. The catalog structure in Lightroom is exactly the same. And what is convenient, you can put a photo in any of the folders on the disk, and then synchronize this folder in Lightroom, and the photo will appear in the program. For me, such a structure is quite convenient for storage, and does not take additional time for cataloging, I did it once and that's it. Now there is just a trend to dump everything in one heap, and only then the program itself distributes photos according to different criteria. I like this option less.

I store the photos in the originals, that is, in RAW, in order to be able to make what I need from the photo at any time. And in Lightroom, I have in the settings to save all information about the photo to XMP files. After all, when RAW is processed, nothing happens to the file itself, all information about the actions taken is stored in the catalog file. So XMP is a double of information for each photo, they weigh quite a bit, so the total volume is not particularly increased. XMP files make it easier to transfer photos to other computers and this is a kind of protection against the fact that something will happen to the catalog file, there have already been precedents, you had to delete it.

Where to backup photos

In addition to how to store photos, it is important where else to back them up. First you need to remember the golden rule that backups should be 2. As I said, all my photos are stored on an external hard drive, that is, this is the main base, and 2 backups (copies) need to be made to it. Your main base can also be on a hard laptop, that's more convenient.

I make the first backup for another one external hard disk. About once every 3 months (and before each trip) I make a complete copy from one external (main) to the second (backup). So that it does not take time, I set it to be copied at night, and in the morning everything is ready. I don’t take a second hard drive on trips, that is, the risk of ruining it is minimal.

I make the second backup to the cloud from the main hard one, specifying the folder with the base as the folder for the cloud. While I am using cloud service Mail.RU, since in 2014 they had a promotion and they gave 1TB for life. But this place is no longer enough for me, plus I don’t like the download speed, and the fact that the storage is not very reliable, there was already a case when they deleted some of the files for me. Therefore, I want to switch to, which is now considered the most functional and secure. There is a good paid tariff with no space limit. In principle, I already use it, I store important files, but for now it's a free plan.

And one more important, as it seems to me, moment. Since on all trips I take only one external hard drive, where the main database is stored, there is a risk of ruining it. This is not scary, since a copy is kept at home, but you can lose photos from current trips if you constantly transfer them from a flash drive to the main drive. So, if possible, I leave all the files on the flash drive, and do not delete them immediately after transferring them to the hard one. Yes, for this you need a larger volume of flash drives (or several pieces) so that they are enough for the whole trip, but there is a guarantee. Also, if if the trip has good internet in the hotel, then the files also fly to the cloud.

P.S. That's all I can tell you about photo processing and storage. Not thick, but there :)

Life hack #1 - how to buy good insurance

Choosing insurance is now unrealistically difficult, so to help all travelers. To do this, I constantly monitor forums, study insurance contracts and use insurance myself.

Saving the project or the finished result is the final stage after the end of the entire configuration and editing of materials. In the well-known Adobe Lightroom editor, this procedure is carried out in much the same way as in other similar programs. However, novice users may encounter various difficulties when saving by using different methods. Therefore, it is for such users that we strongly recommend that you read the instructions below in order to understand this issue.

Method 1: Save to local storage

The most standard and frequently used option is to save the finished album or a single photo to local storage, that is, on a flash drive or hard drive. IN previous versions Lightroom had an export function with flexible settings, but now everything has changed towards minimalism, because the task is completed as follows:

Below, mark the photo you want to save by clicking on it with the left mouse button. If you want to select several images at once, do the same action, but with the key pressed ctrl.

Expand the menu File and select the item "Save To...". You can also access this window using the combination Ctrl+Shift+S.

To get started, specify the save format here: either JPEG, or the original and applied settings while working on the project.

Next, you will be prompted to select a save location for the photos. By default, a separate folder is created in the directory "Images", where all the pictures are placed.

You can choose any place through Explorer or create new folder by right-clicking on an empty space to open the corresponding context menu.

Now select the size of the pictures. As you can see, the settings for this parameter are critically small, which will be insufficient for many users.

You are offered to set only one size parameter yourself, specifying the length in pixels. Therefore, all necessary editing must be done before saving.

Then open the selected directory to check the saved files. If something went wrong, set them up again and resave with a replacement.

The transition to the same save menu is available by clicking on another button in the upper right corner near the search. It is not known why this was done, but such a function exists.

Above, you were introduced to the standard save procedure that ordinary users use most often. Now let's talk about rarer but useful options.

Method 2: Share an album

Sometimes you want to send your finished work to another person or save it online for viewing on another device. In this case, the ideal function "Share & Invite", which allows you to share projects similar to the action of services from Google. You get a random link and when you click on it, the album opens. This is configured like this:

Click on the download button located in the upper right corner and in the context menu that opens, select the item "Share & Invite".

In the window that opens, select the access level. You can set visibility for everyone who has the link or only by invitation.

Now you see the access link itself. It is available for copying to the clipboard or sending to Facebook, Twitter.

A little lower is the line where you enter email addresses to send invitations.

In the tab "Display" the main parameters of the interface are configured.

tab "Settings" is responsible for setting additional parameters that are set individually.

After completing the configuration of the invitations, it remains only to click on the button Done.

If the user clicks on the specified link, he will receive a notification about viewing the album after logging into the account.

Method 3: Save to the official cloud

Free for all Adobe account users cloud storage with a volume of about one terabyte. In the future, it will be possible to buy additional space at special rates, which will allow you to store a lot of useful information, including photos prepared in Lightroom. Setting up saving to the cloud and synchronization between all devices is quite easy:

This method is very good when you always have an active Internet connection. In addition, there is also auto save, which will restore backup in case of loss of important information.

In Adobe Lightroom, there are many more diverse and useful tools for working with photos. We advise you to familiarize yourself with the main functions by reading our other material by clicking on the link below.

We talked about three available methods for saving images in the mentioned program. As you can see, everyone will find the ideal way for themselves and will be able to use it without any problems by sharing the album or saving it to a local medium.

Users are probably used to the usual location of the "Save" button in applications. Almost every program has a save as command. The esteemed company Adobe Systems has distinguished itself by a non-standard approach to saving photos. Therefore, many users often have a question about how to save photos in Lightroom. Instead of complaining about Adobe Systems, you can try to understand the sequence of steps to accomplish this task.

Photos: export

First, let's talk about how Lightroom exports. Usually the results of creativity in other computer programs can be immediately saved as files. Adobe Lightroom has to export photos to files. Of course, this sounds somewhat unusual. It's worth trying to ask a friend or colleague who has never used this program about how to save photos in Lightroom and what command to choose for this. In response, you can hear only the word save. Why is it missing from this app? It seems that easily understandable terms are not used in professional programs.

Sort desired photos

First, you need to select the pictures you want to export in JPEG, TIFF, DNG and PSD formats. This can be done in the film panel or in the grid view of the dedicated Library module by pressing the Cmd key (in Macintosh). IN Windows system you should use the Ctrl key. You need to click on each of the pictures you want to export in turn.

Export dialog

In the Library module, click on the Export button, which is located in the lower right corner on the left side of the sidebars. When using the film panel, you must press Cmd+Shift+E (in Macintosh) to select pictures in another module. On a Windows system, use Ctrl+Shift+E. After completing this action, an export dialog box will appear. The user needs to change the settings there. After that, he will be able to save the photo in Lightroom.

Preset area

On the left side of the export dialog is the Preset sphere. It lists all the presets available in Lightroom, as well as user-created and saved settings. To fill in some fields default settings to export images in JPEG format and write to disk at the same time, use the Burn Full-Sized JPEGs setting as a reference.

Preset "Record full size JPEG photos"

She has her own purpose. This preset will act as a starting point for further adjustments in the export dialog to the desired values that will be needed when saving images to files in the desired format and location. The set parameters will be saved as a special preset. As a result, a novice user who wants to learn how to save photos in Lightroom will avoid repeating the same steps every time they export images. If you want to save JPEG image files not on disk, but in a directory on your computer, then you should click, while holding down the mouse button, on the icon with geometric shapes (triangles) in the upper right in the Export dialog box. This will open a list from which you must select the option Files on Disk.

Catalog selection

Next, specify a location to save the photo files in the Export dialog box. First you need to select a separate directory, you can also add pictures to the folder with the originals. If you want to save files separately from other pictures, then you should check the Specific Folder option from the Export To drop-down list. To select a specific folder, click the Choose button and find it. If you need quick access to exported images, you should save them to a directory on your desktop. By checking the Put in Subfolder checkbox and specifying the folder name, the files are organized in one place. If you want to add exported images to the Lightroom catalog, then you should check the Add to Lightroom Catalog checkbox.

Renaming files

The next area that needs to be mastered by those who want to learn how to save a photo in Lightroom is File Naming. There are cases when the user does not want to rename the file of the exported image and wants to keep the current name. Then he should select the option Filename from Template and move on to the next area of the dialog box to be explored. If you still want to rename the file, then you need to look for some template from the list of built-in options or user-created ones. For example, the sequence is given the name Foto. By using the Custom Name - Sequence template (adding a serial number), all files will be named as follows: Foto-1, Foto-2, etc.

Type of exported image

In the File Settings area, you can select the format of the saved file from the Format drop-down list.

When exporting JPEG images, a horizontal Quality slider appears to the right of this list. File sizes depend on the quality of the saved photos. The 80 mark on the Quality slider is a guarantee of the optimal ratio of photo quality and file size. To transfer an image to a person who does not have a Photoshop Lightroom editor, select sRGB from the Color Space drop-down list.

When specifying other formats for a file, it becomes possible to configure Extra options color color and compression ratio.

If desired, you can change the size of the photo in the Image Sizing area. To do this, check the Resize to Fit checkbox and enter the necessary parameters for the image to be exported.

Photo adjustment

In order to get sharpening of finished images for printing and display in web galleries, in the Output Sharpening area, check the Sharpen For box. Photos can be displayed on the screen (Screen item) or immediately printed, with a choice of matte or glossy paper. The sharpness of the images in these two cases will be different. Due to the high degree of its increase (High) when outputting to an inkjet printer, the photo will be correctly reflected on paper, while on the computer screen it is too detailed. Not all pictures are meant to be printed. Those that should be published on the Internet are saved with the standard degree of sharpening (Standard). This parameter can be changed in the Amount drop-down menu.

Removing labels

When the Minimize Embedded Metadata checkbox is checked, all existing metadata received from the user's camera will be excluded from the files. At the same time, personal information, including information about copyright protected by law, will be preserved. When this box is checked, the following item will be added to the Lightroom list of built-in keywords of the selected images will not be available.

To overlay exported pictures with copyright information that was entered when the pictures were imported into Adobe Lightroom, select the Add Copyright Watermark option.

Further commands

In the Post-Processing area, you can specify what should be done with the file after the export procedure is completed. If you select Do Nothing from the After Export drop-down list, it will be saved unchanged in the specified directory. Selecting the Open in Adobe Photoshop CS option will open the exported file in Photoshop. In addition to immediately using the saved images in another application, you can select Open in Other Application. The Go to Export Actions Folder Now feature allows you to send a photo via email.

Export settings for creating a photobook

Saved images can be used in almost any editor. Photobook is a great gift for friends and family. How to save in "Lightroom" pictures intended for their subsequent design of a brochure?

First you need to choose the images you like. Then you need to use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl + A. In the export dialog box, you need to select a directory to save the photos, you can even create a new folder called Photobook (“Photobook”). In order for the editor to “understand” the order of images set by the user, you should rename the files so that the names begin with a serial number. It is necessary to consistently mark Rename To, Edit.

Further actions

Putting the cursor in front of the name, you need to select in turn Sequence 001, Insert. You can add custom text. To do this, select the Custom text field and separate it with an underscore. Most photobook editors only work with JPG snapshots and PNG images. The quality slider should be moved to 90. It is also better to note the traditional sRGB color space.

Next, choose the size and resolution of the photos. The basic principle: you can not take pictures too small, otherwise the sharpness will change dramatically. If the exported images are large, they will be reduced in the photobook editor automatically. However, it is worth at least roughly estimating the size of the pictures in the layout. If the photos have a gigantic resolution, then the user should save thumbnails with suitable settings sharpness. This will save disk space.

Additional settings

The sharpening options are for inkjet printers and screens. In the case of photobooks, printing technologies are different, but this does not mean that pictures do not need to be sharpened. Usually, successively set settings “matte paper”, “standard” work well. However, they will be superfluous in the case of a female portrait. Therefore, you should try the test photobook printing service. The rest of the settings can be set to your liking. Next, you need to minimize the metadata and select "Open catalog after export". How to save a preset in Lightroom to export layout images? To do this, click on the Export button.

Create a preset

All specified settings should be saved as a special preset. After completing this task, the user will no longer have to bookmark an article on how to save a photo in Lightroom, and manually repeat the above procedure every time they need to export a JPEG file to a computer directory. In order for the preset to be used more efficiently, some modifications must be made to it.

Changing a preset

If you create a separate preset right now, each time you use it, JPEG photos will be saved in the Foto folder. It's better to clear the Put in Subfolder checkbox right away. Then you need to create a new directory on your desktop. Next, give it a suitable name, such as JPEG, and click the Choose button to find it in the list. Then you need to select the newly created directory as a special folder for exporting photos. All JPEG images will be saved there. Therefore, you should select the Ask What to Do item in the Existing Files drop-down list for the case when the program finds files with the same name in this directory.

How to save a preset in Lightroom

In addition, the user may need to rename the files because images named Foto were already saved in the directory during a previous export. In this case, select the Filename item from the Template drop-down list. The current file names will be saved. Next, create a preset from the updated settings by clicking on the Add button at the bottom of the Preset area in the Export dialog box. The user can give it a name. This should be done in the New Preset dialog box that opens. How to save a preset in Lightroom? You just need to click on the Create button.

User Presets

After clicking the Create button, the saved preset will appear in the User Presets section. To export JPEG images using desired settings just click on it. The user may need to make changes to a saved preset, such as resetting the checkbox to set a watermark. To perform this task, right-click the set (on a Windows system) and select Update with Current Settings, or Ctrl-click on it (on a Macintosh system).

Other preset variations

If the user was able to open the Export dialog box, customize the export of photos according to his needs and, finally, learn how to save photos in Lightroom, then nothing prevents him from creating another preset as a modification of the first, for example, for the subsequent demonstration of JPEG -images in web galleries.

To do this, set the resolution to 72 dpi in the special Resolution field. This column is located in the Image Sizing area. Next, select the items Screen (“Screen”) and Sharpen For from the drop-down lists Standard (“Standard”) and Amount, respectively. Do not forget to check the box Add Copyright Watermark, thanks to which the images will be protected from unauthorized use. After making changes, click on the Add button and give the new preset a suitable name.

from Lightroom to a computer using a preset

After creating presets, the user can forget about accessing dialog box export. This saves a lot of time. To export JPEG-images, select the necessary pictures, and then sequentially the menu items File (“File”), Export with Preset. Next, you need to click on a specific preset. After that, you can safely observe the automatic export of images, carried out without user intervention. Any person who has tried to learn how to save a photo in Lightroom will agree that it is very simple and convenient!