Household stabilizers that can be remade. Powerful homemade transformer stabilizer. The outlet voltage is too low or too high

The electrical network in many of our homes cannot boast high quality, this is especially true for rural areas that are remote from the city. Therefore, voltage surges often occur. Local manufacturers of electrical appliances take this circumstance into account and provide a safety margin. But many people mainly use foreign technology, for which such jumps are destructive. Therefore, it is necessary to use special devices. And you don’t have to buy them in stores; you can make a 220V voltage stabilizer with your own hands according to the diagram. This task is not entirely difficult if you do everything according to the instructions.

Just before assembly you need to familiarize yourself with existing species similar devices and find out what their operating principle is.

Necessary measure

Ideally, the electrical network can operate efficiently with minor voltage drops - no more than 10%, both higher and lower than the nominal 220V. However, as real operating conditions show, these changes are sometimes quite significant. And this already threatens the failure of connected devices.

And to avoid such troubles, a device such as a voltage stabilizer was created. And if the current goes beyond the permissible value, the device will automatic mode will de-energize connected electrical appliances.

What else could cause the need for such a device and why do some people think about making a homemade 220V voltage stabilizer according to the circuit? The presence of such an assistant is justified due to the following possibilities:

• Household appliances are guaranteed to work for a long time.
• Mains voltage monitoring.
• The specified voltage level is maintained automatically.
• Current surges do not affect electrical appliances.

If such electrical “anomalies” occur frequently in your place of residence, you should consider purchasing good stabilizer. As a last resort, assemble it yourself.

Types of stabilizers

The main component of any such protective electrical device is its adjustable autotransformer. Currently, many manufacturers produce several types of devices that have their own voltage stabilization technology. These include two main 220V voltage stabilizer circuits for the home:

• Electromechanical.
• Electronic.

There are also ferroresonant analogues, which are practically not used in everyday life, but they will be discussed a little later. Now it’s worth moving on to a description of existing models.

Electromechanical (servo-drive) devices

The mains voltage is adjusted using a slider that moves along the winding. At the same time, different numbers of turns are used. We all studied at school, and some of us may have dealt with a rheostat in physics lessons.

Voltage works on a similar principle. Only the slider is moved not manually, but using an electric motor called a servo drive. It is simply necessary to know the structure of these devices if you want to make a 220V voltage stabilizer with your own hands according to the diagram.

Electromechanical devices are highly reliable and provide smooth voltage regulation. Characteristic advantages:

• Stabilizers work under any load.
• The resource is significantly greater than that of other analogues.
• Affordable cost (half lower than electronic devices)

Unfortunately, with all the advantages there are also disadvantages:

• Due to the mechanical design, the response delay is very noticeable.
• Such devices use carbon contacts, which are subject to natural wear and tear over time.
• The presence of noise during operation, although it is practically inaudible.
• Small operating range 140-260 V.

It is worth noting that, unlike the 220V inverter voltage stabilizer (you can make it with your own hands according to the circuit, despite the apparent difficulties), there is also a transformer. As for the operating principle, voltage analysis is performed by an electronic control unit. If it notices significant deviations from the nominal value, it sends a command to move the slider.

The current is regulated by connecting more transformer turns. In case the device does not have time to react in a timely manner to excessive voltage, a relay is provided in the stabilizer device.

Electronic stabilizers

The operating principle of electronic devices is a little different. There are several schemes underlying this:

• thyristor or seven-storage;
• relay;
• inverter

Such devices operate silently, with the exception of relay stabilizers. They switch modes using power relays controlled by the electronic unit management. Since they mechanically disconnect the contacts, noise can be heard from time to time during operation of such devices. For some, this may be a serious disadvantage.

That's why best choice you will purchase or manufacture a 220V inverter voltage stabilizer with your own hands, the diagram of which is not difficult to find.

Other electronic analogues have special switches, thyristors and semistors, and therefore they work in silent mode. This also allows the stabilizers to operate almost instantly. Other advantages include:

• no heating;
• the operating range is 85-305 V (for relay devices it is 100-280 V);
• compact dimensions;
• low cost (again applicable to relay stabilizers).

General disadvantage electronic devices consists of a stepwise circuit for adjusting the mains voltage. In addition, thyristor devices have the highest cost, but at the same time they have a very long service life.

Inverter technology

A distinctive feature of such devices is the absence of a transformer in the design of the device. However, voltage regulation is carried out electronically, and therefore it belongs to the previous type, but is like a separate class.

If you want to make a homemade 220V voltage stabilizer, the circuit of which is not difficult to obtain, then it is better to choose inverter technology. After all, the principle of operation itself is interesting here. Inverter stabilizers are equipped with double filters, which allows minimizing voltage deviations from the nominal value within 0.5%. The current entering the device is converted into direct voltage, passes through the entire device, and before exiting it again takes on its previous form.

Ferroresonance analogues

The operating principle of ferroresonant stabilizers is based on the magnetic resonance effect that occurs in a system with chokes and capacitors. In operation, they are a little similar to electromechanical devices, only instead of a slider there is a ferromagnetic core that moves relative to the coils.

This system is highly reliable, but is large in size and makes a lot of noise during operation. There is also a serious drawback - such devices operate only under load.

If previously such a 220V network voltage stabilizer circuit was popular, now it is better to abandon it. In addition, sinusoidal distortions cannot be excluded here. For this reason, this option is not suitable for modern household electrical appliances. But if the household has powerful electric motors, hand tools, and welding machines, then such stabilizers are still applicable.

Ferroresonance stabilizers were widespread in everyday life 20 or 30 years ago. At that time, old televisions were powered through them, since they had a special design that did not allow safe use of the electrical network directly. There are modern models of these stabilizers that do not have many disadvantages, but they are very expensive.

Homemade apparatus

What kind of 220V voltage stabilizer circuit can you implement with your own hands? The simplest version of the stabilizer consists of a minimum number of components:

• transformer;
• capacitor;
• diodes;
• resistor;
• wires (for connecting microcircuits).

Using simple skills, assembling the device is not as difficult as it might seem. But if you have an old welding machine, everything becomes simpler, since it is practically already assembled. However, the problem is that not every person has such a welding machine, and therefore it is better to find another method for a homemade device.

For this reason, let's look at how you can make some analogue of a triac stabilizer. This device will be designed for an input operating range of 130-270 V, and the output will be supplied from 205 to 230 V. A large difference in the input current is rather a plus, but for the output current it is already a minus. But for many household appliances this difference is acceptable.

As for power, the 220V circuit, made by hand, allows the connection of electrical appliances up to 6 kW. The load switches within 10 milliseconds.

Advantages of a homemade device

A stabilizer made independently has its pros and cons, which you should definitely know about. Main advantages:

• low cost;
• maintainability;
• independent diagnostics.

The most obvious advantage is its low cost. All parts will need to be purchased separately, and this is still incomparable with ready-made stabilizers.

If any element of the purchased voltage stabilizer fails, it is unlikely that you can replace it yourself. In this case, all that remains is to call a specialist to your home or take him to service center. Even if you have some knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, finding the right part is not so easy. It’s a completely different matter if the device was made by hand. All the details are already familiar and to buy a new one, just visit the store.

If anyone has previously assembled a 220V 10kW voltage stabilizer circuit with their own hands, it means that the person already understands many of the intricacies. This means that identifying the malfunction will not be difficult.

Disadvantages to Consider

Now let's touch on some of the disadvantages. No matter how much he praises himself, he will not be able to compete with real professionals in the electrical field. For this simple reason, the reliability of a homemade stabilizer will be inferior to branded analogues. This is due to the fact that production uses high-precision instrumentation, which ordinary consumers do not have.

Another point is a wider operating voltage range. If for a store-bought version it ranges from 215 to 220V, then for a device created at home, this parameter will be exceeded 2 or even 5 times. And this is already critical for a large number of modern household appliances.

Accessories

To assemble a 220V electronic voltage stabilizer using the circuit yourself, you cannot do without the following components:

• power supply;
• rectifier;
• comparator;
• controller;
• amplifiers;
• LEDs;
• delay node;
• autotransformer;
• optocouplers;
• fuse switch.

You will also need a soldering iron and tweezers.

Features of home production

All elements will be placed on a printed circuit board measuring 115x90 mm. Why can you use foil fiberglass? A diagram of the location of all working components can be printed on laser printer, and then transfer everything using an iron. The example itself is below.

Now you can move on to making transformers. And here everything is not so simple. In total you need to make two elements. For the first one you need to take:

• magnetic core with a cross-sectional area of ​​187 mm 2;
• three PEV-2 wires.

Moreover, one of the wires should be 0.064 mm thick, and the other - 0.185 mm. To begin with, a primary winding is created with the number of turns - 8669. Subsequent windings have fewer turns - 522.

The electrical circuit of the 220V voltage stabilizer provides for the presence of two transformers. Therefore, after assembling the first element, it is worth moving on to manufacturing the second. And for this you already need a toroidal magnetic circuit. The winding here is also made from PEV-2 wire, except that the number of turns will be equal to 455. In addition, seven taps should come from the second transformer. The first three require a wire with a diameter of 3 mm, and the remaining 4 will be made from tires with a cross-section of 18 mm². Thanks to this, the transformer will not heat up while using the stabilizer.

The task can be significantly simplified if you take two ready-made TPK-2-2 12V elements and connect them in series. All other necessary parts must be purchased in the store.

Assembly process

Assembling the stabilizer begins with installing the microcircuit on the heat sink. This can be an aluminum plate with an area of ​​at least 15 cm2, on which triacs should also be placed. For the stabilizer to operate effectively, you cannot do without a microcontroller, for which you can use the KR1554LP5 microcircuit.

Of course, this is not a 220V circuit, but for domestic needs such a device is quite sufficient. At the next stage, you need to arrange the LEDs, and you need to take the blinking ones. However, you can use others, for example, AL307KM or L1543SRC-E, which have a bright red glow. If for some reason it is not possible to arrange them as required by the diagram, you can place them in any convenient place.

If anyone has been interested in similar assemblies before, then assembling your own stabilizer will not be difficult. This is not only an enriching experience, but also significant savings, since several thousand rubles will remain untouched.

It is necessary to correctly implement the connection diagram. And there are two ways:

1. After the meter - suitable when you need to protect the entire electrical network of an apartment or house. A machine is placed directly at the output of the electric meter, and the voltage regulator is connected to its output. If necessary, you can also connect a circuit breaker to the stabilizer itself.
2. Connection to a power outlet - in this case, only those devices that are connected to the regulator will be protected.

During operation, the device will heat up, and the cramped space will not provide adequate cooling. As a result, the stabilizer will quickly fail. The best option in this case is an open area.

If this is not possible for various reasons, you can build a niche specifically for the device. In this case, it is necessary to maintain at least 10 cm from the surface of the niche to the walls of the stabilizer. After assembling the device, you should check it and pay attention to the presence of any extraneous noise.

After you have successfully created 220V with your own hands, you should not think that it all ends there. It is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance every year, which involves inspecting the stabilizer and re-tensioning the contacts if necessary. This is the only way to be sure that a homemade “product” will work as effectively as its industrial counterparts.

As a conclusion

Without a doubt, making a stabilizer yourself requires certain knowledge and skills. You also need to understand exactly how such devices work and know some of the nuances. In addition, you will need to purchase all the necessary components and perform proper installation.

Perhaps all the work will seem difficult for some. Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to go to the store not for parts, but for the device itself. In addition, all models have a certain warranty period.

Content:

In electrical circuits, there is a constant need to stabilize certain parameters. For this purpose, special control and monitoring schemes are used. The accuracy of the stabilizing actions depends on the so-called standard, with which a specific parameter, for example, voltage, is compared. That is, when the parameter value is below the standard, the voltage stabilizer circuit will turn on the control and give a command to increase it. If necessary, the opposite action is performed - to reduce.

This operating principle underlies automatic control all known devices and systems. Voltage stabilizers operate in the same way, despite the variety of circuits and elements used to create them.

DIY 220V voltage stabilizer circuit

With ideal operation of electrical networks, the voltage value should change by no more than 10% of the nominal value, up or down. However, in practice, voltage drops reach much higher values, which has an extremely negative effect on electrical equipment, even to the point of failure.

Special stabilizing equipment will help protect against such troubles. However, due to its high cost, its use in domestic conditions is in many cases economically unprofitable. The best way out of the situation is a homemade 220V voltage stabilizer, the circuit of which is quite simple and inexpensive.

You can take an industrial design as a basis to find out what parts it consists of. Each stabilizer includes a transformer, resistors, capacitors, connecting and connecting cables. The simplest is considered an alternating voltage stabilizer, the circuit of which operates on the principle of a rheostat, increasing or decreasing the resistance in accordance with the current strength. Modern models additionally contain many other functions that protect household appliances from power surges.

Among homemade designs, triac devices are considered the most effective, so this model will be considered as an example. Current equalization with this device will be possible with an input voltage in the range of 130-270 volts. Before starting assembly, you must purchase a certain set of elements and components. It consists of a power supply, rectifier, controller, comparator, amplifiers, LEDs, autotransformer, load turn-on delay unit, optocoupler switches, fuse switch. The main working tools are tweezers and a soldering iron.

To assemble a 220 volt stabilizer First of all, you will need a printed circuit board measuring 11.5x9.0 cm, which must be prepared in advance. It is recommended to use foil fiberglass as a material. The layout of the parts is printed on a printer and transferred to the board using an iron.

Transformers for the circuit can be taken ready-made or assembled yourself. Finished transformers must be brand TPK-2-2 12V and connected in series to each other. To create your first transformer with your own hands, you will need a magnetic core with a cross-section of 1.87 cm2 and 3 PEV-2 cables. The first cable is used in one winding. Its diameter will be 0.064 mm, and the number of turns will be 8669. The remaining wires are used in other windings. Their diameter will be already 0.185 mm, and the number of turns will be 522.

The second transformer is made on the basis of a toroidal magnetic core. Its winding is made of the same wire as in the first case, but the number of turns will be different and will be 455. In the second device, seven taps are made. The first three are made from wire with a diameter of 3 mm, and the rest from tires with a cross-section of 18 mm2. This prevents the transformer from heating up during operation.

It is recommended to purchase all other components ready-made in specialized stores. The basis of the assembly is circuit diagram voltage stabilizer, factory-made. First, a microcircuit is installed that acts as a controller for the heat sink. For its manufacture, an aluminum plate with an area of ​​over 15 cm2 is used. Triacs are installed on the same board. The heat sink intended for installation must have a cooling surface. After this, LEDs are installed here in accordance with the circuit or on the side of the printed conductors. The structure assembled in this way cannot be compared with factory models either in terms of reliability or quality of work. Such stabilizers are used with household appliances that do not require precise current and voltage parameters.

Transistor voltage stabilizer circuits

High-quality transformers used in electrical circuit, effectively cope even with large interference. They reliably protect household appliances and equipment installed in the house. A customized filtration system allows you to deal with any power surges. By controlling the voltage, current changes occur. The limiting frequency at the input increases, and at the output it decreases. Thus, the current in the circuit is converted in two stages.

First, a transistor with a filter is used at the input. Next comes the start of work. To complete the current conversion, the circuit uses an amplifier, most often installed between resistors. Due to this, the device supports required level temperature.

The rectification circuit operates as follows. Rectification of alternating voltage from the secondary winding of the transformer occurs using a diode bridge (VD1-VD4). Voltage smoothing is performed by capacitor C1, after which it enters the compensation stabilizer system. The action of resistor R1 sets the stabilizing current on the zener diode VD5. Resistor R2 is a load resistor. With the participation of capacitors C2 and C3, the supply voltage is filtered.

The value of the output voltage of the stabilizer will depend on the elements VD5 and R1, for the selection of which there is a special table. VT1 is installed on a radiator whose cooling surface area must be at least 50 cm2. The domestic transistor KT829A can be replaced with a foreign analogue BDX53 from Motorola. The remaining elements are marked: capacitors - K50-35, resistors - MLT-0.5.

12V linear voltage regulator circuit

Linear stabilizers use KREN chips, as well as LM7805, LM1117 and LM350. It should be noted that the KREN symbol is not an abbreviation. This is an abbreviation of the full name of the stabilizer chip, designated as KR142EN5A. Other microcircuits of this type are designated in the same way. After the abbreviation, this name looks different - KREN142.

Linear stabilizers or voltage stabilizers direct current schemes have become most widespread. Their only drawback is the inability to operate at a voltage lower than the declared output voltage.

For example, if you need to get a voltage of 5 volts at the output of the LM7805, then the input voltage must be at least 6.5 volts. When less than 6.5V is applied to the input, a so-called voltage drop will occur, and the output will no longer have the declared 5 volts. Besides, linear stabilizers They get very hot under load. This property underlies the principle of their operation. That is, voltage higher than stabilized is converted into heat. For example, when a voltage of 12V is applied to the input of the LM7805 microcircuit, then 7 of them will be used to heat the case, and only the necessary 5V will go to the consumer. During the transformation process, such strong heating occurs that this microcircuit will simply burn out in the absence of a cooling radiator.

Adjustable voltage stabilizer circuit

Situations often arise when the voltage supplied by the stabilizer needs to be adjusted. The figure shows simple circuit adjustable voltage and current stabilizer, allowing not only to stabilize, but also to regulate voltage. It can be easily assembled even with only basic knowledge of electronics. For example, the input voltage is 50V, and the output is any value within 27 volts.

The main part of the stabilizer is used field-effect transistor IRLZ24/32/44 and other similar models. These transistors are equipped with three terminals - drain, source and gate. The structure of each of them consists of a dielectric metal (silicon dioxide) - a semiconductor. The housing contains a TL431 stabilizer chip, with the help of which the output is adjusted electrical voltage. The transistor itself can remain on the heatsink and be connected to the board by conductors.

This circuit can operate with input voltage in the range from 6 to 50V. The output voltage ranges from 3 to 27V and can be adjusted using a trimmer resistor. Depending on the design of the radiator, the output current reaches 10A. The capacity of smoothing capacitors C1 and C2 is 10-22 μF, and C3 is 4.7 μF. The circuit can work without them, but the quality of stabilization will be reduced. The electrolytic capacitors at the input and output are rated at approximately 50V. The power dissipated by such a stabilizer does not exceed 50 W.

Triac voltage stabilizer circuit 220V

Triac stabilizers work in a similar way to relay devices. A significant difference is the presence of a unit that switches the transformer windings. Instead of relays, powerful triacs are used, operating under the control of controllers.

Control of the windings using triacs is non-contact, so there are no characteristic clicks when switching. To wind an autotransformer it is used copper wire. Triac stabilizers can operate at undervoltage from 90 volts and high - up to 300 volts. Voltage regulation is carried out with an accuracy of up to 2%, which is why the lamps do not blink at all. However, during switching, a self-induced emf occurs, as in relay devices.

Triac switches are highly sensitive to overloads, and therefore they must have a power reserve. This type stabilizers have a very difficult temperature regime. Therefore, triacs are installed on radiators with forced fan cooling. The DIY 220V thyristor voltage stabilizer circuit works in exactly the same way.

There are devices with increased accuracy that operate on a two-stage system. The first stage performs a rough adjustment of the output voltage, while the second stage carries out this process much more precisely. Thus, control of two stages is performed using one controller, which actually means the presence of two stabilizers in a single housing. Both stages have windings wound in a common transformer. With 12 keys, these two stages allow you to adjust output voltage in 36 levels, which ensures its high accuracy.

Voltage stabilizer with current protection circuit

These devices provide power primarily for low-voltage devices. This current and voltage stabilizer circuit is distinguished by its simple design, accessible element base, and the ability to smoothly adjust not only the output voltage, but also the current at which the protection is triggered.
The basis of the circuit is a parallel regulator or an adjustable zener diode, also with high power. Using a so-called measuring resistor, the current consumed by the load is monitored.

Sometimes at the output of the stabilizer there is short circuit or the load current exceeds the set value. In this case, the voltage across resistor R2 drops, and transistor VT2 opens. There is also a simultaneous opening of transistor VT3, which shunts the reference voltage source. As a result, the output voltage is reduced to almost zero level, and the control transistor is protected from current overloads. In order to set the exact threshold for current protection, a trimming resistor R3 is used, connected in parallel with resistor R2. The red color of LED1 indicates the protection has tripped, and the green LED2 indicates the output voltage.

After correctly assembled, the circuits of powerful voltage stabilizers are immediately put into operation; you just need to set the required output voltage value. After loading the device, the rheostat sets the current at which the protection is triggered. If the protection should operate at a lower current, for this it is necessary to increase the value of resistor R2. For example, with R2 equal to 0.1 Ohm, the minimum protection current will be about 8A. If, on the contrary, you need to increase the load current, you should connect two or more transistors in parallel, the emitters of which have equalizing resistors.

Relay voltage stabilizer circuit 220

With the help of a relay stabilizer, reliable protection of instruments and other electronic devices is provided, for which the standard voltage level is 220V. This voltage stabilizer is 220V, the circuit of which is known to everyone. It is widely popular due to the simplicity of its design.

In order to properly operate this device, it is necessary to study its design and operating principle. Each relay stabilizer consists of an automatic transformer and an electronic circuit that controls its operation. In addition, there is a relay housed in a durable housing. This device belongs to the voltage booster category, that is, it only adds current in the event of low voltage.

Adding the required number of volts is done by connecting the transformer winding. Usually 4 windings are used for operation. If the current is too high electrical network, the transformer automatically reduces the voltage to the desired value. The design can be supplemented with other elements, for example, a display.

Thus, the relay voltage stabilizer has a very simple operating principle. Current is measured electronic circuit, then after receiving the results, it is compared with the output current. The resulting voltage difference is regulated independently by selecting the required winding. Next, the relay is connected and the voltage reaches the required level.

Voltage and current stabilizer on LM2576

I recently had to build my own Charger For car battery with a current of 3 - 4 amperes. Of course, I didn’t want to split hairs, I didn’t have time, and first of all I remembered the charging current stabilizer circuit. Using this scheme it is very simple and reliable to make a charger.

Here is the circuit diagram for the charger:

An old microcircuit (K553UD2) was installed, although it was old, there was simply no time to try new ones, and besides, it was at hand. The shunt from the old tester fit perfectly in place of resistor R3. The resistor can, of course, be made from nichrome yourself, but the cross-section must be sufficient to withstand the current through it and not heat up to the limit.

We install the shunt parallel to the ammeter, select it taking into account the dimensions of the measuring head. Actually, we install it on the head terminal itself.

This is what the charger current stabilizer circuit board looks like:

Any transformer can be used from 85 W and above. The secondary winding should have a voltage of 15 volts, and the wire cross-section should start from 1.8 mm (copper diameter). A 26MV120A took the place of the rectifier bridge. It may be too big for this type of design, but it is very easy to install, just screw it on and put on the terminals. You can install any diode bridge. For him, the main task is to withstand the appropriate current.

The case can be made from anything; the case from an old radio tape recorder worked well for me. For good air flow top cover drilled holes. Instead of the front panel, a sheet of PCB was installed. The shunt, the one on the ammeter, must be adjusted based on the readings of the test ammeter.

We attach a transistor to the rear wall of the radiator.

Well, we have assembled the current stabilizer, now we need to check it by short-circuiting (+) and (-) together. The regulator should provide smooth adjustment over the entire range of charging current. If necessary, you can use the selection of resistor R1.

It is important to remember that all the voltage goes to the control transistor and it gets very hot! Once checked, open the jumper!

Everything is ready and you can now use a charger that will consistently maintain current throughout the entire charging range. It is necessary to monitor the voltage reading on the battery using a voltmeter, since such a charger does not have an automatic shutdown after charging is completed.

The modern power supply network works in such a way that the voltage changes very often. Of course, the change in current is permissible, but in any case it should not be more than ten percent of the nominal 220 volts.

This deviation norm must be observed both in the direction of decreasing and in the direction of increasing voltage. However, such a state of the power supply network is very rare, since the current in it is characterized by large changes.

Such changes are very disliked by electrical appliances, which may not only lose their design capabilities, but may also fail. To eliminate such a negative scenario, people use various stabilizers.

Today the market offers a lot of different models, most of which cost big money. The other part cannot boast of operational reliability.

And what to do then if you don’t want to overpay or buy a low-quality product? In this situation, you can make a voltage stabilizer with your own hands.

Of course you can do it different kinds stabilization devices. One of the most effective is the triac. Its actual assembly will be discussed in this article.

Characteristics of the assembled device

This stabilizing device will not be sensitive to the frequency of the voltage supplied through shared network. Current equalization will be carried out provided that the input is more than 130 and less than 270 volts.

The connected devices will receive a current that is more than 205 and less than 230 volts. It will be possible to connect electrical appliances to this stabilization device, the total power of which can be equal to six kilowatts.

The stabilization device will switch the load in 10 milliseconds.

Stabilization device device

General scheme This stabilization device is shown in the figure:

Rice. 1. Structure of the stabilization device.

1. A power supply unit, which includes capacitors C2 and C5, comparator DA1, thermal-electric diode VD1 and transformer T1.
2. A node that will delay turning on the load. It consists of resistors R1-R5, transistors VT1-VT3 and capacitor C1.
3. A rectifier that will measure the voltage amplitude. It consists of capacitor C2, diode VD2, zener diode VD2 and dividers R14, R13.
4. Voltage comparator. Its composition assumes the presence of resistors R15-R39 and comparators DA3 and DA2.
5. Logical controller, which is located on chips marked DD1...5.
6. Amplifiers, which are based on transistors VT4...12 and current-limiting resistors R40...48.
7. Indicator LEDs HL1-HL9.
8. Optocoupler switches (their number is seven). Each is equipped with triacs VS1...7, resistors R6...12 and optosimistors U1-U7.
9. Automatic fuse switch QF1.
10. Automatic transformer T2.

Principle of operation

How does our network voltage stabilizer, which is easy to make with your own hands, work?

After the power is turned on, capacitor C1 is in a discharged state, transistor VT2 is open, and VT2 is closed. Transistor VT3 is also closed. It is through it that current will be supplied to each LED and triac optotron.

Since this transistor is off, the LEDs are not lit, each triac is off, and the load is off. At this time, electric current passes through resistor R1 and enters C1. Next, this capacitor is charged.

The delay interval lasts only three seconds. During this time, all transient processes are carried out, and after completion, the Schmitt trigger is triggered, the basis of which is transistors VT1 and VT2.

The voltage that comes out from the third winding T1 is rectified by the diode VD2 and capacitor C2. Next, the current passes through the divider R13…14. From R14, a voltage whose level is proportional to the number of volts in the network is included in each non-inverting input of the comparators.

The number of comparators is eight and they are all located on chips DA2 and DA3. At the same moment, a constant reference current enters the inverting input of each comparator. It is supplied by resistor dividers R15...23.

After this, the controller comes into play, which processes the signal at the input of each comparator.

Features of work

When the input number of volts is less than 130, the outputs of each comparator are fixed at a low logic level. At this time, transistor VT4 is in the open state and the first LED is blinking.

He reports that the network is characterized by a very low voltage level. It means that adjustable stabilizer tension, made with your own hands, cannot fulfill its function.

Each of its triacs is closed and the load is off.

When the number of input volts ranges from 130 to 150, then signals 1 and A are characterized by a high logic level. This level of all other signals is low. In this situation, transistor VT5 opens and the second LED lights up.

The optosimistor U1.2 and the triac VS2 open. It is through the latter that the load will pass. Next, it will enter the upper terminal of the winding of the automatic transformer T2.

If the input volts are in the range of 150-170 volts, then signals 2, 1 and B are characterized by a high logic level. This level of all other signals is low.

With this input number of volts, transistor VT6 opens and the third LED turns on. At this time, the second triac (VS2) opens and the current is transferred to the terminal of winding T2, which is second from the top.

A self-created voltage stabilizer that can supply 220 V will switch connections to the windings of the second transformer, provided that the input voltage level reaches 190, 210, 230 and 250 volts.

To produce such a stabilizer you need to take printed circuit board, which measures 115x90 millimeters. The main element from which it should be made should be one-sided foil fiberglass. The placement of elements on the board is given below.

Rice. 2. Layout of elements on the board.

Such a board can be easily printed on a laser printer. Next, use an iron. Often, the Sprint Loyout 4.0 program is used to create print files in which the layouts of such boards are stored. It is convenient to use it to make printed circuit boards.

Manufacturing of transformers

As for transformers T1 and T2, they can be made manually.

To manufacture T1, the power of which will be designed for three kilowatts, it is necessary to prepare a magnetic circuit, the cross-sectional area of ​​which should be 1.87 square meters. centimeters, as well as three PEV-2 wires.

The first should have a diameter of 0.064 millimeters. It is used to create the first winding. The number of its turns should be 8,669.

The other two wires are used to create the other two windings. These wires must have the same diameter, namely 0.185 millimeters. The number of turns in each winding should be 522.

Helpful advice: You can also take two ready-made transformers TPK-2-2x12V, which must be connected in series.

Connection diagram below:

Rice. 3. Connection of two transformers TPK-2-2x12V.

To create a T2 transformer with a power of 6 kilowatts, a toroidal magnetic core is used. The winding is made using PEV-2 wire. Number of turns - 455.

This transformer needs to have seven taps. The first three bends are wound using a wire that has a diameter of three millimeters. Tires are used to create the other four. Their cross-section should be 18 square millimeters. Thanks to a cross section of this size, T2 will not heat up.

Branches are made at 398, 348, 305, 266, 232 and 203 turns. The counting of turns starts from the lowest tap. In this case, the current from the network must flow through the tap of the 266th turn.

Required Components

As for the other elements of the stabilizer, which you assemble yourself and which will supply constant voltage, it is better to buy them in a store.

So, you need to purchase:

1. - triac optocouplers MOC3041 (seven of them are needed);
2. - seven triacs BTA41-800B;
3. - stabilizer KR1158EN6A (DA1);
4. - two LM339N comparators (for DA2 and DA3);
5. - two diodes DF005M (in the diagram VD2, VD1)
6. - three wirewound resistors SP5-2 or SP5-3 (for R25, R14 and R13);
7. - seven resistors C2-23, which have a tolerance of at least one percent (for R16...R22);
8. - thirty any resistors with a tolerance of 5 percent;
9. - seven current-limiting resistors. They will pass a current whose strength is 16 mA (for R41-47).
10. - any four oxide capacitors(for C5, C1-C3);
11. - four ceramic or film capacitors (C4, C6...C8);
12. - fuse switch.

Helpful advice: seven MOC3041 triac optocouplers can be replaced by MOC3061. The KR1158EN6A stabilizer can be easily replaced with KR1158EN6B. The K1401CA1 comparator is an excellent analogue of the LM339N. KTs407A can also be used as diodes.

The KR1158EN6A microcircuit must be mounted on a heat sink. To create it, an aluminum plate is taken, the area of ​​which must exceed 15 square centimeters.

Also, triacs should be installed on the heat sink. For all seven triacs, you can use one heat sink, which must have a cooling surface. Its area must be greater than 1,600 square centimeters.

Our DIY AC voltage stabilizer must be equipped with a KR1554LP5 microcircuit, which will act as a microcontroller.

It was noted above that the device assumes the presence of nine LEDs. In the diagram presented above, they are arranged in such a way that they can fit into the corresponding holes on the front panel of the device itself.

Helpful advice: if the housing design does not allow them to be mounted as shown in the diagram, then they can also be placed on the side on which the printed conductors are located.

LEDs should be flashing.

Helpful advice: you can also use LEDs that do not blink. They should produce a red color of increased brightness. To do this, you can take L1543SRC-E or AL307KM.

Of course, it is possible to assemble simpler stabilization devices that will have their own characteristics.

Advantages and disadvantages over factory ones

If we talk about the advantages of do-it-yourself stabilization devices, the main one is lower cost. As noted above, manufacturers charge fairly high prices. Assembling your own will cost less.

Another advantage is the possibility of lightweight self-repair voltage stabilizer, which was made by hand. What is meant here is that everyone who assembled such a device understands its structure and understands the principle of operation.

If any element fails, the designer can easily locate the broken component and replace it. Easy replacement is also due to the fact that almost every element was previously purchased in a store and is easy to find in many others.

The disadvantages include the low level of reliability of such stabilizers. Enterprises have a lot of measuring and special equipment, which makes it possible to develop very high-quality models of stabilization devices.

Also, enterprises have extensive experience in creating various models and previously made mistakes are definitely corrected. This affects both the quality and reliability of factory stabilization devices.

The downside is that it's complicated to set up.

Video.

The video below shows how to assemble a stable voltage regulator, for example, to control incandescent lamps and LEDs.

When purchasing a new stabilizer to replace an outdated or broken unit, owners wonder what to do with its predecessor? In addition to the obvious options, such as scrapping or sending to a landfill, there are other possibilities for using old stabilizer.

Charger

Charger for car battery– the first thing that can be made from a voltage stabilizer. To do this, you need to wind a diode bridge and a winding of thick wire around the toroidal core at the rate of one turn per volt, that is, for a 12 V device you will need 12 turns.

Uninterruptable power source

A UPS for a personal computer is another option for what can be made from a stabilizer from a TV. An undeniable advantage such use is protection hard drive a computer that can crash during strong voltage surges in the electrical network without the use of a stabilizer.

However, there is a nuance here: the stabilizer from the TV is inductive, which will lead to a voltage surge to the lower level when the monitor is connected. Due to the dropped voltage, the computer will begin to reboot and a vicious circle will form. However, this problem can be solved if you do not connect system unit with the monitor directly to the stabilizer, and connect them with a third grounding contact. An ordinary Euro-standard tee, already provided with grounding, is perfect for such a contact.

A step-down transformer

Using an autotransformer from a voltage stabilizer of the “Ukraine” type, you can convert it into a step-down transformer for 12 - 14 Volts.

To find out whether the primary winding is suitable, you need to briefly connect its ends to the network through an ammeter alternating current, set to the maximum measuring limit. If within a few seconds the current does not exceed 50-100 milliamps, then rewind primary winding you won't have to.

Next, you should wind ten turns with any wire (in insulation), connect the transformer to the network and measure the voltage at the ends of this winding. In this way, you can calculate the number of turns required to obtain required voltage and add about ten percent to the result to compensate for the voltage drop under load.

The resulting number of turns is wound with a winding wire with a cross-section of 1 to 1.5 square meters. mm (to obtain a current of 3-5 Amperes).

Other options

You can consider other options for what to make from an old voltage stabilizer with your own hands:

• power transformer;
• power supply for the amplifier - by winding a secondary toroidal core onto the primary winding. Winding is done with a wire of two millimeter diameter; in total, about seventy to eighty turns are needed;
• output transformer of a guitar amplifier - any old ferromagnetic type stabilizer that works on the principle of introducing a magnetic circuit into saturation will do. The output produces nonlinear distortions, which is unacceptable for working with high-quality sound systems, will be justified here, since in electric guitar amplifiers the harmonic components are increased specifically through the use of distortion stages.

To rewind transformers from a stabilizer, it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the wire and the number of turns - this is necessary to obtain the required voltage. The program “calculation of a toroidal transformer” will help you solve this issue yourself.

Old voltage stabilizers are essentially transformers with a transformation ratio of unity. They are perfect for protecting any valuable electrical appliance (TV, amplifier, Personal Computer) from extreme voltage drops in the electrical network.