dps power supply. A story about how I made a powerful laboratory power supply from RD DPS5020-C (Communication Version). Adjusting screen brightness
I welcome everyone who stopped by. The review will focus, as you probably already guessed, on a compact step-down converter DPS8005, intended for the construction of a laboratory power source. Distinctive Features This module is compact in size, large input voltage range, excellent accuracy of measurement and parameter setting, as well as the presence of memory banks for saving current settings. The device is very interesting, so whoever is interested, you are welcome under cat.
RD official store on AliExpress
General view and brief performance characteristics
- Packaging and equipment
- Appearance
- Dimensions
- Disassembly
- Management
- Connection to a computer
- Testing
- Calculation of efficiency
- Links to other products
General view of the DPS8005 module:
Brief technical characteristics:
Manufacturer - Ruideng Technologies
- Model name - DPS8005
- Device type – step-down converter
- Case material – plastic
- Input voltage range – 10V-90V
- Output voltage range – 0.00V-80.00V
- Setting accuracy (resolution) of output voltage – 0.01V
- Voltage measurement accuracy: ±0.5% (2 digits)
- Output current – 0-5,100A
- Setting accuracy (resolution) of output current – 0.001A
- Current measurement accuracy: ±0.8% (3 digits)
- Output power – 0-408W
- Display – color 1.44”
- Number of memory banks – 10
- PC connection – wired (USB) and wireless (BT)
- Dimensions – 79mm*54mm*43mm
- Weight - 150g
Equipment:
Step-Down module DPS8005
- module wireless communication from PC (BT)
- wired communication module with PC (USB)
The DPS8005 Step-Down module is supplied in a simple foam box, noticeably larger than the dimensions of the module itself:
This is a big plus, since in case of impacts or crushing, the chance of safety of the product increases noticeably. In addition, inside the box there is a special liner made of foamed polyethylene, inside of which there are parts:
With such careful packaging you don’t have to worry about safety:
In addition to the modules themselves, the kit includes detailed instructions in English and Chinese:
I would like to note that when purchasing, you can choose any of three configuration options:
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I recommend taking a closer look at the maximum configuration, since it allows you to control the step-down module wireless Bluetooth connection. Saving a couple of dollars from the basic package (DPS8005 module only) is not worth it.
Appearance:
The DPS8005 step-down module looks discreet. The front panel contains only four control buttons, a regulator and a display:
The plastic housing of the module has protruding sides and stops for installation in various housings:
I would like to note that the assortment of the RD (Ruideng Technologies) store includes several DIY cases, so in some cases you can focus on them (links at the end of the review):
The arrangement of the elements is quite dense, there are no complaints about the installation (the soldering is good, the flux is washed off, the components are taken with a good margin). There is a 4-pin block for connection:
Electronic components protrude somewhat beyond the body, but this is not critical:
The wireless communication module is quite compact and will not take up much space in the future case:
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The operation is based on the BK3231 controller (Bluetooth 2.1):
The wired communication module is similar in size. The most popular microUSB connector is used for connection:
The operation is based on the CH340G chip, a USB to UART interface converter (USB-UART bridge). Unfortunately, it is impossible to connect two communication modules at the same time, since there is only one output in the DPS8005 step-down module. In addition, the connecting cable is also the same:
Despite all this, I plan to make a switch on the future power supply to select wired or wireless transmission data. Perhaps I’ll talk about this in the second part.
Dimensions:
The dimensions of the DPS8005 step-down module are small, only 79mm*54mm*43mm:
Traditionally, a comparison with a thousand dollar bill and a box of matches:
Module weight is almost 105g:
Module disassembly:
If disassembly is necessary, you need to bend the four latches from the ends of the case and push out all the electronics:
The element base is as follows: power mosfet HY18P10, rated at 100V/80A, dual Schottky diode VF40100C at 100V/40A, current shunt, ring inductor and electrolytes at 100V. The power mosfet is placed through a thermal pad on a common radiator:
As you can see from the photo, all electronics are mounted on three double-sided boards:
Dimensional elements are brought out from the edge:
The review shows board version 1.1, module name – DPS8005. The connection block for communication modules is not very well located, so you will have to use a thin screwdriver to connect any communication module:
An encoder is used as a regulator:
Control:
In terms of connection, everything is banal and simple - two inputs and two outputs:
For normal operation A high-quality mains power supply (PS) is desirable, which is connected to the “IN+” and “IN-” sockets. Consumers are connected, respectively, to the “OUT-” and “OUT+” sockets. If there is any communication module available, then it must be connected to the appropriate connector (a screwdriver will help). The store's assortment includes step-up and step-down modules with an additional board, where the connection is a little more complicated.
The controls for most of these models are the same:
1) M1 button – set the output voltage, move up in the menu, shortcut for M1 preset groups
2) SET button - switches the main menu and the settings menu. When you hold the button, the parameters are stored in memory
3) M2 button – setting the output current limit, moving down the menu, shortcut for M2 preset groups
4) multifunctional display – displays information about current parameters
5) encoder button – setting the desired parameter value (more/less), scrolling through the menu, moving through cells (registers) when pressed
6) ON/OFF - turn on/off the output voltage
Main (top) and additional (bottom) display menus:
Main menu elements:
1.2) current preset volt/ampere
3,4,5) current readings of voltage, current and power
6) input voltage from external power supply
7) parameter settings lock indicator
8) “normal” mode icon
9) indication of CV (voltage stabilization) or CC (current limit) mode
10) memory bank indication (M0-M9)
11) indication of on/off output voltage
Elements of the additional preset menu:
12) setting output voltage
13) Output current setting
14) setting the limit voltage
15) setting the current limit
16) setting maximum power
17) setting the display brightness level (6 brightness levels)
18) indication of entering settings into the memory bank
19) current voltage and current readings
Overall, the controls are quite simple. When connected to a computer, the buttons on the module are blocked. The only downside is that the location of the power button is not very good, but basically everything is simple and convenient.
Connection to computer:
To connect to a computer, you need to connect the required communication module (BT or USB) to the main DPS8005 module using the supplied cable. In case of a wired connection, you need to use a USB interface -> microUSB cable (with interface DATA pins) to connect the module to the USB connector of the computer. After installing the drivers, a virtual COM port:
In this case, control from the module is blocked, the readings are transmitted to the program:
The functionality of the program is good.
Testing:
To test and compare the results, I will use a simple stand from an adjustable Gophert CPS-3010 power supply with crocodiles and a True-RMS multimeter UNI-T UT61E:
The minimum input voltage is 8.7V, with a stated 10V:
With a further decrease, the module simply turns off. I don't have in this moment a power source with a voltage higher than 32V, so I cannot measure the maximum operating voltage. In tests the maximum will be 32V:
The ON/OFF button is very convenient, allowing you to disconnect the module output from the load:
Now let's check the module's error by comparing the readings with a very accurate UT61E multimeter. When the output was set to 1V, the voltage was 1.0085V:
Let me remind you that the declared accuracy of the module is 0.5%, which at a voltage of 1.0085V is ± 0.005V. Unfortunately, the module resolution is two decimal places (“hundreds”), but it still fits into the error.
It fits into the stated accuracy. This model allows you to set hundredths of a volt, so for example we’ll set it to 5.55V. As a result, we get 5.54V on the module and 5.548V on the multimeter:
When setting 20V, the picture is similar. On the device 19.99V, and on the multimeter 19.997V:
As I mentioned earlier, for the Step-Down (step-down) module to work, a difference is required, which in this case is 1V. For my case, the maximum voltage at the module output is no more than 31V:
Next in line is measuring the current readings. To do this, we will use a Juwei electronic load with a maximum current consumption of 3.5A. Let me remind you that the manufacturer claims installation up to thousandths of an ampere and an error of 0.8%. Let's start with small currents, for example, 0.05A:
As you can see, the readings differ by one thousandth of an ampere, which fully corresponds to the declared parameters and even much more.
Let’s raise the current with the help of a load to half an ampere and, as a result, again the discrepancy with the multimeter is one thousandth of an ampere:
Next it measured at a more serious current of 2A:
The reading on the module is 2.001A, and on the multimeter – 2.002A. With a stated accuracy of 0.8%, the discrepancy can be ± 0.016A, but we have a discrepancy of 0.001A, which is just excellent.
At 3A the discrepancy was 0.003A, which is 8 times less than the declared error:
Since the maximum current for electronic load is 3.5A, then the usual ones come into play load resistors. When the current is greater than 5.1A, the module automatically switches to current limiting mode, and the indicator changes from “CV” to “CC”:
A similar behavior will occur if you limit the output current to any value. This is a very useful function with which you can power LED bulbs, charge batteries, so you shouldn’t neglect it.
At 5A output, the accuracy also corresponds to the declared one (discrepancy of 0.003A):
Since the power elements are installed with a large margin, there is practically no heating at a low output power of 40W (8V/5A). Full power tests will probably be in the second part, since at the moment I do not have a power supply with a high output voltage.
Ripple when powered by an adjustable Gophert CPS-3010 power supply at a load of 1A and 3.5A:
The ripple amplitude is small: at 1A up to 35mV (peak to peak 72mV) and up to 60mV (peak 120mV) at 3.5A.
In total, the module showed good accuracy. I would like to have a voltmeter resolution of three decimal places, but alas, this will most likely be implemented in future models.
Module efficiency calculation:
Since this module is essentially a converter, there will always be losses during its operation. The calculation will be made at a small and maximum voltage for my stand of 10V and 32V.
The first option in line is using a power supply with a high output voltage (32V):
Input voltage – 32V
- input current – 0.2A
- output voltage – 5V
- output current – 1A
Power P1=32*0.2=6.4W
Power P2=5*1=5W (in the future I will take it according to the module readings)
Efficiency = P2/ P1 = 0.78, that is, 78% at ampere load.
Here it is necessary to take into account the error of the devices, as well as the losses in the connecting wires and terminals, because at a current of 1A they are rather large. Without taking into account losses, you can expect an average efficiency of 80-85%.
Input voltage – 32V
- input current – 0.55A
Power P1=32*0.55=17.6 W
Power P2=15W
Efficiency = P2/ P1 = 0.85, that is, 85% at a three-amp load.
In theory, the higher the current, the higher the losses and the lower the overall efficiency of the converter.
Option with input voltage 10V and load 1A:
Input voltage – 10V
- input current – 0.57A
- output power (according to module readings) – 5W
Power P1=10*0.57=5.7W
Power P2=5W
Efficiency = P2/ P1 = 0.87, that is, 87% at a load of 1A
Option with input voltage 10V and load 3A:
Input voltage – 10V
- input current – 1.68A
- output power (according to module readings) – 15W
Power P1=10*1.68=16.8W
Power P2=15W
Efficiency = P2/ P1 = 0.89, that is, 89% at a three-amp load.
Links to some other Ruideng Technologies products:
Light DIY case Total, the step-down module showed itself to be good. It is compact and easy to use. Can be used from anyone network adapter(for example, a laptop power supply), turning it into a full-fledged laboratory source nutrition. I plan to install this module in a computer power supply, slightly modifying it to increase the voltage. So far, this is the candidate:
What will come of this, see in the second part...
This module can be purchased in the official store RD official store on AliExpress
Homemade laboratory block The power supply had to be easy to assemble, two-channel, with the ability to measure current, voltage and power. And it is desirable that it be powerful, very powerful! You never know how many amperes of current and hundreds of watts of output may be needed in amateur radio practice)) Website Radio circuits I’ve already published a lot of homemade ones, but ready-made modules from Aliexpress like DPS5015 + any switching power supply fit ideally into this concept. Just in time, we came across a faulty 400W switching power supply with an output of 40 V and a maximum load current of 14 A. After some repairs, we bought 2 DPS5015 modules and an input network filter - due to the considerable interference it creates pulse block nutrition.
Assembly of the device lasted 3 days and the most time was spent designing the elements in the case and manufacturing the front panel. It is printed on photo paper and coated with spray varnish.
The biggest expenses went to 2 x DPS5015 - that’s about 4,000 rubles. You can find the cheapest offer using.
Technical parameters of DPS5015 modules
- Input voltage range: 6-60V
- Output voltage range: 0-50V
- Output current: 0-15A
- Output power: 0-750W
- Module weight: about 220g
- Module size: 79x43x41 mm (LxWxH)
- Output voltage resolution: 0.01V
- Output current resolution: 0.01 A
- Voltage measurement accuracy: ± (0.5% + 1 digit)
- Current Accuracy: ± (0.5% + 2 digits)
Everything works great in the end. The only drawback is one power source. It will not be possible to short-circuit the plus of the first and minus of the second channel for the total ground in order to obtain negative and positive voltages with respect to ground, as is required, for example, in amplifier power supplies.
Another drawback is that the pulsation of the alternating component at the output has a relatively large amplitude. Here is a test on a 360 W load for 15 A current.
It was decided to install a 2x300 µH inductor and a 220 µF capacitor at the output, which significantly improved the purity of the output voltage. The second version of such a power supply is described
Modules designated by Chinese manufacturers as DP50V5A, DP30V5A, DPS3003, DPS3005, DPS3012 and DPS5015 are ready-made blocks DC voltage converters, with programming capabilities and designed to create powerful power supplies. The modules are controlled Step-Down converters. Most of them are monoblock, and only in versions with an output current of 12 and 15 amperes, the power part is separated from the control part on two flexible cables. The cost on the Aliexpress website, depending on the model, is 2000-3000 rubles.
General information about DP and DPS DC-DC converters
Processes constant pressure And D.C., programmable control of the power supply. The voltage range is adjustable from 0-50 V, step 0.01 V. The output current is adjustable in the range 0-15A, step 0.01 A. The module saves 10 groups of set value when the power is turned off. Compared with traditional analog power supplies, it is more convenient, and you can quickly set the desired voltage or current level.
The LCD display of the module has the function digital voltmeter and ammeter. On it you can view the set voltage, input voltage, output voltage, set current, output current, output power, etc. The brightness of the LCD screen is also adjusted.
DP and DPS modules have many advantages: small size, advanced functions, good visual display, high reliability, accuracy, the unit can be used independently, and can be built into the desired device.
Main technical parameters
- Input voltage range: 6-60V
- Output voltage range: 0-50V
- output current: 0-15 A
- output power: 0-750W
- product weight: about 220 g
- module size: 79*43*41(mm) (L*W*H)
- output voltage with resolution: 0.01 V
- output current measures with resolution: 0.01 A
- Output voltage accuracy: ± (0.5% + 1 digit)
- output current with accuracy: ± (0.5% + 2 digits)
Module table DP50V5A, DP30V5A, DPS3003, DPS3005, DPS3005-C, DPS5005, DPS5005-C, DPS3012, DPS5015, DPH3
Old versions - table in English
Power is supplied to them from switching power supplies at a suitable power.
Please note: the input voltage must be at least 1.1 times higher than the output voltage. When the current is greater than 10 A or the temperature exceeds 45C, the fan will start working. If overheating exceeds 65C, the module will be automatically turned off.
Connection diagram and description
- IN+: positive voltage input
- IN-: negative input
- OUT+: output positive
- OUT-: output negative
The constant input voltage range of 6-60V and 60V is a limit that must not be exceeded, otherwise the unit will be burned. And don’t even think about supplying AC 220 V to the input, otherwise there will be big fireworks!
Controls - Button Functions
- 1-set voltage/scroll up/extract M1 data group
- 2-set data/retrieve specified group data/save in specified group data
- 3-set current/scroll down/extract M2 data group
- 4-1.44″ color LCD screen
- 5-potentiometer/data adjustment/lock all buttons
- 6-Turn on or off
Display symbols
- 7 - set output voltage value
- 8 - actual output voltage value
- 9 - actual output current value
- 10 - actual output power value
- 11 - actual input voltage value
- 12 - output current set value
- 13- lock or unlock a line
- 14- confirm or save
- 15- current or voltage status
- 16- setting memory data
- 17- turn on-off
- 18- setting output voltage
- 19- setting output current
- 20- installation of overvoltage protection
- 21- overcurrent setting
- 22- setting power overload
- 23- setting screen brightness
- 24- setting a data set in memory
- 25 - actual value of output voltage and current
User manual
When connecting the power supply, the screen shows a “welcome” splash screen and then goes to the main interface. In the main interface, the voltage and output current values can be set to the current value - located at the top of the screen. On the left side are the current real output voltage, real output current and real output power. The input voltage data is at the bottom of the screen.
Setting up protection
Press the pages up or down to the page to display S-OVP, S-OCP or S-OPP, this is the setting of the overvoltage, overcurrent and overpower value respectively; Short press the coding on the potentiometer to enter the adjustment status of the numerical value you want to adjust. Turn the potentiometer encoder to adjust the numerical value. If you want to exit the adjustment, briefly press SET.
Adjusting screen brightness
Press the pages up or down until the page marked B-LED, and then press the potentiometer encoder briefly to enter the screen brightness adjustment state. Turn the potentiometer knob to adjust the numerical value. To exit the adjustment menu, briefly press SET. There are 6 brightness levels for the LCD screen, level 0 is the darkest and level 5 is the brightest.
How to program memory
There is also a changeable ON/OFF parameter next to the cell. It works as follows: if, when the converter output is activated, call data from a memory cell with the value ON, the parameters will be applied immediately, the output will remain active, if OFF, the output will turn off. There is no difference when the output is deactivated. IN new version The converter has an additional menu item in which you can set and turn on/off the converter output when recalling data from a memory cell. To quickly recall data in cells M1 and M2, you must click the corresponding button on the left. Writing to other memory cells is similar. Select a cell, make changes, save by pressing SET - the cell number lights up under the CV icon.
Greetings, electronics lovers! This story began with the purchase of a similar module - DPS5015, or more precisely with how it burned out for me. I described all the vicissitudes of the repairs associated with it in this. And I liked this Chinese guy so much in communication that when a new, more powerful version came out, and even with communication (even though I had no urgent need for increased power), I thought: let the guy work - and ordered the most powerful one, at the moment from their line, the block is DPS5020-C (especially since I already had a kilowatt power supply for it). And I decided to take it from full capabilities communications – both with USB and Bluetooth modules.
Warning: There will be a lot of pictures and text below. For those who are not afraid of this, welcome to the cat.
I had this power supply. (Although it is recommended that there be a reserve). I actually ordered 800W (because it was taken for the 750W DPS5015), but the seller said that he would send me 1000W instead for the same money, and I, of course, agreed, and was even happy for a while that I received a kilowatt unit at a fairly attractive price - $59.33. But I wasn’t happy for very long - this unit also went through one adventure for me - a capacitor inside it exploded and exploded, and for no apparent reason - when I was just powering the DPS5015 with it after repair and modification, and even with low power consumption - about 20W. 
The explosion site is clearly visible (the capacitor lies separately, circled in red). Fortunately, the DPS5015 survived, and surprisingly, almost everything in the power supply itself remained intact - in addition to the condenser, another 18V zener diode 1N4746A further along the power supply was knocked out, and of course, the fuse. Thank God, the inscription of its capacity remained on the condenser - 223J, i.e. 22nF. I don’t know what the voltage is, but apparently the Chinese were saving money, so I set the maximum voltage that I found - 1.6 kV - now, I think, it will not fail under any circumstances. 
And the Chinese, as it turned out, saved on the output electrolytes - they installed 2 pieces, although there was room for 3, and even at 50V. And on this block I turn up the maximum of its capabilities - 55V, so that I can get 50V voltage from the regulator. As a result, the output electrolytes, so that they would not be offended by me, had to be replaced with , well, and put 3 of them, since there are 3 regular places. Well, according to the recommendation, I soldered each of them 2 ceramic 220nF capacitors to smooth out high-frequency ripples. 
Now for the DPS5020 block. I have not yet seen its description on Muska, so I will describe it in more detail. It came in standard foam packaging, so it arrived well. Consists of 2 modules - power and control, connected to each other via 2 harnesses.
Photo of the English part of the instructions
Plus, inside there were also contact terminals and a gift pair of crocodiles.
This converter differs from previous models only in the output current of 20A, so all operating modes and settings are exactly the same as those of the younger models. Therefore, I will not dwell on these descriptions, because... detailed reviews have already been done on Muska several times. And I will dwell on the differences that have not yet been reviewed, namely the presence of communication modules - USB and Bluetooth. Unfortunately, the package only came with one wire to connect to them. Why "Unfortunately? It seems like only one communication module can be connected at a time and one wire seems to be enough. But I decided to connect both at once, so as not to pull them out, so I need 2 wires. But my regret was short-lived, because... A long time ago I bought a bunch of these wires. And even their colors matched. Speaking of colors, please note that they do not fit into the usual logic at all. If you look closely, you can see that:
- Ground – red
- Rx – black
- Tx – yellow
- Vcc – green
Although now I would probably take one with side outlets, like SK-22D07:
I connected according to the following simple scheme:
The remaining wires were paralleled. Of course, it would be possible to connect the modules through diodes with pull-up resistors, but I didn’t want to bother, so I made the switching hard, through a switch. The Bluetooth board, in my opinion, is unreasonably large, so I had to sharpen it a little,
so that it matches the width of the USB module.
Then I decided to put them one on one, just on foamed 2-sided tape.
The USB module is smaller, so I place it on top:
The result is such a compact, elegant design. I decided to use it to press the button to the body - at the same time the problem of how to reversibly press the button to the body was solved. It was also possible to place the LEDs from them on the case to see which unit is connected, but again, I didn’t want to bother. Soldered all the wires to the button:
Yes, and I started thinking about how to place all 3 units together (power supply unit S-1000-48, power unit and control unit DPS5020) together. At first I thought of screwing the power block on top of the S-1000-48, but then, looking inside the S-1000-48 again, I discovered that the DPS5020 power module fits inside this block, exactly between the cooler and the transformer, only upside down - screwed to the lid.
And the length of the harnesses and the connecting wire is just enough to go outside, although I had to cut out one rib in the ventilation grille of the S-1000-48 unit in order to pass both harnesses through it. And, by the way, since the DPS5020 power unit is located in front of the cooler of the S-1000-48 unit, its own fan can, and even needs to be removed, because Now there is no need for it and it will only interfere with the flow of the large fan. After this, the laboratory worker matured, so to speak, into a complete structure. All he had to do was make a box that would fit on the end of the S-1000-48 power supply. Then it’s a matter of technology: a little 3D modeling, then a little 3D printer work - and here is the finished box:
And then we begin to systematically fill it with filling. First we place the button:
Then we clamp it on top with a sandwich of switching modules:
We fasten the power one. Well, I decided to make another output directly from the S-1000-48 block directly, in case I suddenly need 55V through this one. And finally, the power button and the DPS5020 control module:
Forgive me for the “dirt” on the wires - I was trying to paint the silicone wire with a marker to color code it. As you can see, silicone paints very poorly.
Yes, since the 220V contacts are located at the same end of the S-1000-48 block, in order to bring out the 220V wire in a human way - from the back (and not like last time -), I had to pass it under the main board of the S-1000-48 block , and in the end, so that it would not fray or break, I passed it through a piece of porous foam rubber and jammed the wire from behind with it.
The power wires, since currents of 20A are supposed to pass through them, had to be taken quite thick. In one case I took silicone AWG16 - yellow, and in the rest - stranded copper wire, approximately 2mm in diameter.
Well, we also had to drill out the power supply grille for the power wires - top and bottom. Well, so that the grille does not scratch the insulation, I wrapped these wires with electrical tape, and at the same time improved the color marking. Well, I also wrapped the harnesses, to prevent chafing, with Mylar tape, passing the patch wire between the harnesses. In general, the result is a fairly compact design, as for a kilowatt device.
The laboratory worker started working immediately, as expected. But during power tests, one trouble was discovered: at a power of more than 150W, color artifacts begin to appear on the screen:
then the color palette is disrupted:
and in the end, as a rule, everything ends with a white screen with freezing and lack of response to controls:
.Sometimes I even saw the screen rotated 90 degrees:
ending also with a violation of the color palette
and the same white screen with freezing.
I wrote to the manufacturer about this situation. He wrote back that there was nothing wrong with this - it’s just that, apparently, the harnesses from the control module go close to the electrolytic capacitors and interference is induced from them. Therefore, you need to either place the harnesses away from electrolytes or shield them. And my harnesses just go through those powerful 63V electrolytes of the S-1000-48 power supply. I had to screen it. I found a braid (stocking) from the cables and stuffed both harnesses into it. I. just in case, the communication wire to the USB and Bluetooth modules was stuffed into a separate braid.
I also soldered the braid to the grounding terminal of the power supply, then I had to wrap it with tape - so as not to inadvertently short something inside the S-1000-48 - and, lo and behold, it gave results: the screen stopped showing artifacts, and the controls stopped freezing.
Now a few words about how to work through communication ports. First you need to download their program from this. Naturally, we need the file DPS5020_PC_Software(2017.07.12).zip. You need to run it and install it. You may also need CH341SER drivers - they are also included inside. The seller recommends that you first download and test the program to see if it will run normally on your computer before ordering a unit with communication. Prog required operating system Windows 7 or higher. When working via a USB module, everything is simple: when you connect via a micro-USB cable to a computer, a virtual COM port is installed in the system, you need to indicate it to the program and click Connect.
Working via Bluetooth requires a few big steps. Well, firstly, you need Bluetooth itself on your computer. And this is either in the laptop, or I bought myself a module. (of course, Bluetooth is also available on tablets and smartphones, but the manufacturer of programs for them has not yet written. Although one professor has already written a program for them on a smartphone)
After turning it on, in the Bluetooth search you should find a Bluetooth device containing something like DPS in its name.
Then you need to enter a code to pair the devices.
The default is 1234.
After that, 2 virtual COM ports are installed in the system: Outgoing and Incoming.
In the program you need to specify the Outgoing COM port, usually the top one, and click Connect.
After successful connection, the program will block button control, and all control will be carried out through the program.
In the main menu, i.e. Basic function tab, there are 2 virtual knobs for adjusting the output current and voltage. Adjustments can also be made by entering values into the windows at the bottom of the handles. The graphs display the current value of voltage and current over time.
The Advanced function tab provides advanced configuration and management options.
The Data group operation area allows you to read data from 10 converter memory cells, change them and write them back to memory.
The Auto test area allows you to automatically change the output voltage and current with a specified delay. Unfortunately, there are only 10 steps available after which the output is turned off.
The Voltage scan area allows you to automatically change the output voltage with a specified step and time interval. At the end it turns off the output.
The Current region does the same thing, only in reverse: it changes the output current with a given step and delay, and then turns off the output. (The top line there is not just Output, but Output voltage(V) - it simply did not fit due to the enlarged font)
All time intervals can be a maximum of 60 seconds, more precisely 59.9 seconds.
Important! Since, after establishing a connection between the converter and the computer, the control keyboard on the DPS5020 itself is blocked, then before closing the program, you must press the button Disconnect, otherwise the converter will remain in a locked state, which cannot be removed without reconnecting the program or rebooting the converter.
Well. and since it is considered good form here to also provide oscillograms of the noise produced by such modules, I will also try to do this. Unfortunately, of all the oscilloscopes, only the DSO138 showed a more or less adequate picture. Well, even though he’s a shitty guy, he’ll show an approximate picture of what’s happening. So, let's begin: 
Oscillogram directly from the S-1000-48 unit itself, without load. 
Oscillogram from the S-1000-48 unit, with a load of 250W. It can be seen that the frequency and amplitude of the pulse noise has increased. 
Oscillogram from the DPS5020 unit, with the output not turned on. It can be seen that the impulse noise still gets through. 
Oscillogram from the DPS5020 unit, with the output turned on and 50V voltage, but without load (load - oscilloscope) 
Oscillogram from a DPS5020 unit with a load of 7V and 0.7A. 
Oscillogram from a DPS5020 unit with a load of 20V and 2A. 
Oscillogram from a DPS5020 unit with a load of 40V and 4.13A.
Well, the final oscillogram at the maximum power that I can select for now - 250W: 
50V and 5A.
Conclusion.
Pros of DPS5020-C:- Availability of 2 communication options: USB and Bluetooth
- Nice design.
- Convenient information output
- Compact circuit design, as for such powers.
- Possibility of charging batteries directly ( Attention do not mix up the polarity!)
- Very sociable and responsive seller-manufacturer.
- Only 1 communication wire included.
- Bluetooth module is oversized.
- Closed software, although here the manufacturer can be understood, and people are already breaking it little by little.
- If there is Bluetooth, there are no applications for smartphones and tablets, although they may still write.
- Ripple leaks even when the output is closed.
Addition: (as I expected) The manufacturer contacted me and wrote that if I or my friends have the opportunity to create applications for a smartphone, then he can provide his products for free for research.
Pros of S-1000-48:
- Acceptable price.
- Availability of Russian warehouse.
- Tenacious.
- Parts applied without stock
- Quite large ripples
- The fan is quite noisy and is constantly on
- The seller freezes when there are problems.
In general, by connecting these blocks, in fact, I got a kilowatt laboratory device of a compact form factor at a price of a little over a hundred bucks.
I'm planning to buy +29 Add to favorites I liked the review +70 +115Greetings, electronics lovers! This story began with the purchase of a similar module - DPS5015, or more precisely with how it burned out for me. I described all the vicissitudes of the repairs associated with it in this. And I liked this Chinese guy so much in communication that when a new, more powerful version came out, and even with communication (even though I had no urgent need for increased power), I thought: let the guy work - and ordered the most powerful one, at the moment from their line, the block is DPS5020-C (especially since I already had a kilowatt power supply for it). And I decided to take it with full communication capabilities - both USB and Bluetooth modules.
Warning: There will be a lot of pictures and text below. For those who are not afraid of this, welcome to the cat.
I had this power supply. (Although it is recommended that there be a reserve). I actually ordered 800W (because it was taken for the 750W DPS5015), but the seller said that he would send me 1000W instead for the same money, and I, of course, agreed, and was even happy for a while that I received a kilowatt unit at a fairly attractive price - $59.33. But I wasn’t happy for very long - this unit also went through one adventure for me - a capacitor inside it exploded and exploded, and for no apparent reason - when I was just powering the DPS5015 with it after repair and modification, and even with low power consumption - about 20W. 
The explosion site is clearly visible (the capacitor lies separately, circled in red). Fortunately, the DPS5015 survived, and surprisingly, almost everything in the power supply itself remained intact - in addition to the condenser, another 18V zener diode 1N4746A further along the power supply was knocked out, and of course, the fuse. Thank God, the inscription of its capacity remained on the condenser - 223J, i.e. 22nF. I don’t know what the voltage is, but apparently the Chinese were saving money, so I set the maximum voltage that I found - 1.6 kV - now, I think, it will not fail under any circumstances. 
And the Chinese, as it turned out, saved on the output electrolytes - they installed 2 pieces, although there was room for 3, and even at 50V. And on this block I turn up the maximum of its capabilities - 55V, so that I can get 50V voltage from the regulator. As a result, the output electrolytes, so that they would not be offended by me, had to be replaced with , well, and put 3 of them, since there are 3 regular places. Well, according to the recommendation, I soldered each of them 2 ceramic 220nF capacitors to smooth out high-frequency ripples. 
Now for the DPS5020 block. I have not yet seen its description on Muska, so I will describe it in more detail. It came in standard foam packaging, so it arrived well. Consists of 2 modules - power and control, connected to each other via 2 loops.
Photo of the English part of the instructions
Plus, inside there were also contact terminals and a gift pair of crocodiles.
This converter differs from previous models only in the output current of 20A, so all operating modes and settings are exactly the same as those of the younger models. Therefore, I will not dwell on these descriptions, because... detailed reviews on Muska have already been done several times. And I will dwell on the differences that have not yet been reviewed, namely the presence of communication modules - USB and Bluetooth. Unfortunately, the package only came with one wire to connect to them. Why "Unfortunately? It seems like only one communication module can be connected at a time and one wire seems to be enough. But I decided to connect both at once, so as not to pull them out, so I need 2 wires. But my regret was short-lived, because... A long time ago I bought a bunch of these wires. And even their colors matched. Speaking of colors, please note that they do not fit into the usual logic at all. If you look closely, you can see that:
- Ground – red
- Rx – black
- Tx – yellow
- Vcc – green
Although now I would probably take one with side outlets, like SK-22D07:
I connected according to the following simple scheme:
The remaining wires were paralleled. Of course, it would be possible to connect the modules through diodes with pull-up resistors, but I didn’t want to bother, so I made the switching hard, through a switch. The Bluetooth board, in my opinion, is unreasonably large, so I had to sharpen it a little,
so that it matches the width of the USB module.
Then I decided to put them one on one, just on foamed 2-sided tape.
The USB module is smaller, so I place it on top:
The result is such a compact, elegant design. I decided to use it to press the button to the body - at the same time the problem of how to reversibly press the button to the body was solved. It was also possible to place the LEDs from them on the case to see which unit is connected, but again, I didn’t want to bother. Soldered all the wires to the button:
Yes, and I started thinking about how to place all 3 units together (power supply unit S-1000-48, power unit and control unit DPS5020) together. At first I thought of screwing the power block on top of the S-1000-48, but then, looking inside the S-1000-48 again, I discovered that the DPS5020 power module fits inside this block, exactly between the cooler and the transformer, only upside down - screwed to the lid.
And the length of the harnesses and the patch wire is just enough to go outside, although one rib had to be cut out in the ventilation grille of the S-1000-48 unit in order to pass both cables through it. And, by the way, since the DPS5020 power unit is located in front of the cooler of the S-1000-48 unit, its own fan can, and even needs to be removed, because Now there is no need for it and it will only interfere with the flow of the large fan. After this, the laboratory worker matured, so to speak, into a complete structure. All he had to do was make a box that would fit on the end of the S-1000-48 power supply. Then it’s a matter of technology: a little 3D modeling, then a little 3D printer work - and here is the finished box:
And then we begin to systematically fill it with filling. First we place the button:
Then we clamp it on top with a sandwich of switching modules:
We fasten the power one. Well, I decided to make another output directly from the S-1000-48 block directly, in case I suddenly need 55V through this one. And finally, the power button and the DPS5020 control module:
Forgive me for the “dirt” on the wires - I was trying to paint the silicone wire with a marker to color code it. As you can see, silicone paints very poorly.
Yes, since the 220V contacts are located at the same end of the S-1000-48 block, in order to bring out the 220V wire in a human way - from the back (and not like last time -), I had to pass it under the main board of the S-1000-48 block , and in the end, so that it would not fray or break, I passed it through a piece of porous foam rubber and jammed the wire from behind with it.
The power wires, since currents of 20A are supposed to pass through them, had to be taken quite thick. In one case I took silicone AWG16 - yellow, and in the rest - stranded copper wire, approximately 2mm in diameter.
Well, we also had to drill out the power supply grille for the power wires - top and bottom. Well, so that the grille does not scratch the insulation, I wrapped these wires with electrical tape, and at the same time improved the color marking. Well, I also wrapped the cables with lavsan tape, to prevent chafing, passing the patch wire between the cables. In general, the result is a fairly compact design, as for a kilowatt device.
The laboratory worker started working immediately, as expected. But during power tests, one trouble was discovered: at a power of more than 150W, color artifacts begin to appear on the screen:
then the color palette is disrupted:
and in the end, as a rule, everything ends with a white screen with freezing and lack of response to controls:
.Sometimes I even saw the screen rotated 90 degrees:
ending also with a violation of the color palette
and the same white screen with freezing.
I wrote to the manufacturer about this situation. He wrote back that there was nothing wrong with this - it’s just that, apparently, the cables from the control module go close to the electrolytic capacitors and interference is induced from them. Therefore, you need to either place the cables away from electrolytes or shield them. And my cables just pass through those powerful 63V electrolytes of the S-1000-48 power supply. I had to screen it. I found a braid (stocking) from the cables and stuffed both cables into it. I. just in case, the communication wire to the USB and Bluetooth modules was stuffed into a separate braid.
I also soldered the braid to the grounding terminal of the power supply, then I had to wrap it with tape - so as not to inadvertently short something inside the S-1000-48 - and, lo and behold, it gave results: the screen stopped showing artifacts, and the controls stopped freezing.
Now a few words about how to work through communication ports. First you need to download their program from this. Naturally, we need the file DPS5020_PC_Software(2017.07.12).zip. You need to run it and install it. You may also need CH341SER drivers - they are also included inside. The seller recommends that you first download and test the program to see if it will run normally on your computer before ordering a unit with communication. Prog needs an operating room Windows system 7 or higher. When working via a USB module, everything is simple: when you connect via a micro-USB cable to a computer, a virtual COM port is installed in the system, you need to indicate it to the program and click Connect.
Working via Bluetooth will require a few more steps. Well, firstly, you need Bluetooth itself on your computer. And this is either in the laptop, or I bought myself a module. (of course, Bluetooth is also available on tablets and smartphones, but the manufacturer of programs for them has not yet written. Although one professor has already written a program for them on a smartphone)
After turning it on, in the Bluetooth search you should find a Bluetooth device containing something like DPS in its name.
Then you need to enter a code to pair the devices.
The default is 1234.
After that, 2 virtual COM ports are installed in the system: Outgoing and Incoming.
In the program you need to specify the Outgoing COM port, usually the top one, and click Connect.
After successful connection, the program will block button control, and all control will be carried out through the program.
In the main menu, i.e. Basic function tab, there are 2 virtual knobs for adjusting the output current and voltage. Adjustments can also be made by entering values into the windows at the bottom of the handles. The graphs display the current value of voltage and current over time.
The Advanced function tab provides advanced configuration and management options.
The Data group operation area allows you to read data from 10 converter memory cells, change them and write them back to memory.
The Auto test area allows you to automatically change the output voltage and current with a specified delay. Unfortunately, there are only 10 steps available after which the output is turned off.
The Voltage scan area allows you to automatically change the output voltage with a specified step and time interval. At the end it turns off the output.
The Current region does the same thing, only in reverse: it changes the output current with a given step and delay, and then turns off the output. (The top line there is not just Output, but Output voltage(V) - it simply did not fit due to the enlarged font)
All time intervals can be a maximum of 60 seconds, more precisely 59.9 seconds.
Important! Since, after establishing a connection between the converter and the computer, the control keyboard on the DPS5020 itself is blocked, then before closing the program, you must press the button Disconnect, otherwise the converter will remain in a locked state, which cannot be removed without reconnecting the program or rebooting the converter.
Well. and since it is considered good form here to also provide oscillograms of the noise produced by such modules, I will also try to do this. Unfortunately, of all the oscilloscopes, only the DSO138 showed a more or less adequate picture. Well, even though he’s a shitty guy, he’ll show an approximate picture of what’s happening. So, let's begin: 
Oscillogram directly from the S-1000-48 unit itself, without load. 
Oscillogram from the S-1000-48 unit, with a load of 250W. It can be seen that the frequency and amplitude of the pulse noise has increased. 
Oscillogram from the DPS5020 unit, with the output not turned on. It can be seen that the impulse noise still gets through. 
Oscillogram from the DPS5020 unit, with the output turned on and 50V voltage, but without load (load - oscilloscope) 
Oscillogram from a DPS5020 unit with a load of 7V and 0.7A. 
Oscillogram from a DPS5020 unit with a load of 20V and 2A. 
Oscillogram from a DPS5020 unit with a load of 40V and 4.13A.
Well, the final oscillogram at the maximum power that I can select for now - 250W: 
50V and 5A.
Conclusion.
Pros of DPS5020-C:- Availability of 2 communication options: USB and Bluetooth
- Nice design.
- Convenient information output
- Compact circuit design, as for such powers.
- Possibility of charging batteries directly ( Attention do not mix up the polarity!)
- Very sociable and responsive seller-manufacturer.
- Only 1 communication wire included (I checked with the manufacturer - they do not plan to add a wire).
- Excessive size of the Bluetooth module (written with the manufacturer - no plans to change).
- Closed software, although here the manufacturer can be understood, and people are already breaking it little by little.
- If there is Bluetooth, there are no applications for smartphones and tablets, although they may still write. Cm. Update
- Ripple leaks even when the output is closed.
Addition: (as I expected) The manufacturer contacted me and wrote that if I or my friends have the opportunity to create applications for a smartphone, then he can provide his products for free for research. Manufacturer .
Update
It's finished! Recently the manufacturer posted mobile app, which supports Bluetooth communication between Android devices (requires Android 5.0 and higher) with such converters (of course, only communication version).
So, if you have a communication version with a Bluetooth module (if there is no Bluetooth card, you can order it separately.) download the mobile application,
Pros of S-1000-48:
- Acceptable price.
- Availability of Russian warehouse.
- Tenacious.
- Parts applied without stock
- Quite large ripples
- The fan is quite noisy and is constantly on
- The seller freezes when there are problems.
In general, by connecting these blocks, in fact, I got a kilowatt laboratory device of a compact form factor at a price of a little over a hundred bucks.
3D model of the front panel on thingiverse.
I'm planning to buy +44 Add to favorites I liked the review +75 +134